36

FANCY CROWN-TIP OF BRAID 44

ROLLING WIRE BRIM 44

ROUND CROWN OF WIRE 44

ONE METHOD OF STARTING THE BRAID ON CROWN AND SEWING IN PLACE 54

SHOWING METHOD OF COVERING CROWN WITH TWO-INCH WIDE BIAS SATIN 64

RIBBON TRIMMINGS 72

HAND-MADE FLOWERS 78

MAKE YOUR OWN HAT

CHAPTER I

EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS

EQUIPMENT

Thimble
Thread
Needles
Tape-measure
Pins
Tailor's chalk or pencil
Milliner's pliers or wire cutters
Scissors, large and small
Paper for patterns

_Thimble_--good quality

_Thread_--Geneva lustre, black and white, number 36. Colored thread as
needed.

_Needles_--assorted paper of milliner's needles, 8 to 10.

_Tape-measure_--of good quality sateen.

_Tailor's chalk_--white and dark blue.

_Milliner's pliers_--pliers which fit the hand, not too heavy, with
blunt points, and sharp enough to cut a thread.

MATERIALS USED TO MAKE HAT FRAMES

_Fabrics_--

Buckram
Crinoline
Cape net
Neteen or Fly net
Willow plate

_Wires_--

Cable
Frame or brace wire
Lace
Tie
Ribbon
Sprung

_Paper for patterns_--

Heavy manila

BUCKRAM--

Comes in black and white, about twenty-seven inches wide--a heavy stiff
material, smooth on one side and rather rough on the other. It is more
commonly used for hat foundations than any other fabric. There is also a
summer buckram, lighter in weight and smooth on both sides.

CRINOLINE--

Comes in black and white, twenty-seven inches wide--a stiff, thin,
open-meshed material, used to make soft hat frames, to cover wire
frames, and in bias strips to cover edge wire after it is sewed on the
fabric frame.

NETEEN OR FLY NET--

A stiff open-meshed material--comes in black, white, and ecru, one yard
wide--a very popular material on account of its great pliability and
lightness. It is used for blocking frames and copying, the lines being
much softer than when made with buckram. Very durable.

CAPE NET--

A light-weight, open-meshed material used for blocking and for soft
frames. Not as pliable as neteen.

WILLOW PLATE--

A coarse straw-like material, light in weight, brittle, and very
expensive, used in blocking; frames a