Cut the wire inside of the headsize wire in the center. Twist these
wires once and a half around the headsize wire, bringing the ends up at
right angles to the headsize wire. Join the second headsize wire to the
top of these wires, using the same method as for joining the edge wire.
This collar may be made very low or as high as the wires will permit. A
separate crown of wire is not always used in a hat covered with very
sheer material or sheer braid. In such a case the collar would be made
as high as possible to make a support for the crown trimming.

SQUARE CROWN FOR WIRE FRAME--

Straighten the brace wire and cut four sticks or pieces long enough to
reach from the base of the crown at the front up over the proposed crown
to the base of the crown at the back, allowing eight inches for
finishing. Cut and join a small circle of brace wire--about three inches
in diameter--for the crown top. Lay the four sticks across this circle
dividing it into eight equal sections as at the beginning of the brim,
and join to the sticks with tie wire. Cut a piece of brace wire one inch
smaller than the headsize wire. Lap the ends and tie this wire. Elongate
slightly. Join to the sticks outside of the small circle. Keep all
lapped ends of circles on the center back spoke. Bend spokes down _over_
this circle, then measure down from this circle for the height of crown
and mark on spokes with pencil. Be very accurate.

BASE WIRE FOR CROWN--

Measure and cut a length of brace wire one-half inch longer than for the
headsize wire. Lap the ends one inch and join with tie wire. The base
wire of any separate crown must be large enough to fit over the headsize
wire on the brim. Place this circle, after having shaped it like the
headsize wire, on the inside of the spokes at the point marked,
beginning at the center back, and finish as any edge wire by twisting
the ends of the spokes once and a half around the wire. Press the wires
down tight with the pliers. Cut the ends off close and press flat with
the jaws of the pliers. Many more circles may be added and tied on with
tie wire if desired; also more spokes may be added. This would be
desirable if the frame is to be covered with braid, or if used for
blocking fabric for frames.

TRANSPARENT HATS--

If a wire frame is to be covered with thin material, great care and
thought should be given to the frame, for it then forms part of the
design of the hat. A finer wire is sometimes used in t