wire. These measurements are taken
from the pattern. Finish the edge the same as the sailor brim. Add as
many circles between the edge wire and the headsize wire as desired.

We have now made in wire the first variation from a perfectly flat brim.
Always make a pattern before making a wire frame except when copying and
then measurements may be taken from the hat to be copied. Here are some
of the reasons why the pattern is important: first, it may be tried on
and this helps to decide if the style is becoming, before working it out
in wire; second, the position of the wires may be determined and marked
on the paper pattern; third, the more work done from a paper pattern the
easier it will be to copy; fourth, it trains the eye, thus making
free-hand work much easier.

A ROLLING BRIM--

Whether the hat is made in one piece or with a separate brim, the same
method is used. First, as always, the paper pattern. If the brim is to
roll closely on one side and much higher than on the other, extra wires
will be needed to fill the space. The place for these may be determined
on the paper pattern. They may go all the way around, being brought more
closely together on the low side or only part way around as in the
illustration.

Wire frame making requires much patience and practice. It is an art just
as all millinery is an art. Lines are all important. Because of this I
urge much pattern making. Even though one may not have the fundamental
principles of art, something really good often develops and we find we
have built better than we knew. It stimulates originality, but we must
work without _fear_.

TO COLOR WIRE FRAMES--

Wires come in both black and white. A white frame may be colored to
match any sheer fabric used for its covering. It will be found to be
more simple to color the frame after it is made. Any of the cold or soap
dyes may be used. If these are not available, a piece of velveteen
soaked in alcohol and rubbed on the frame will give of its color
sufficiently to tint the wire. Crepe paper may also be used, or
water-color paints. Rouge may be used effectively if moistened. There
are also gold and silver wires which may be used for frames when
desired, and which will add to the beauty of the design. If they cannot
be purchased, a frame of white wire may be gilded by using liquid gilt,
applying it to the frame with a small brush.

HALO HAT BRIMS--

Halo brims may be made from any fabric, but to be effective