ed, when a hole in the top of the
crown may be made and the end pushed through and fastened on the
underside. Keep the braid full enough so that it will lie flat all the
way. Sometimes it is easier to begin sewing the braid on at the very
center of the top of the crown, or a few rows may be sewed to a small
circle of crinoline before attaching to the top of the crown.
If a braid is used which is composed of four or five smaller braids
sewed together, the method is the same until the crown tip is reached
or a place where it is impossible to make the braid lie flat. The braid
must then be separated into the smaller strands and one cut off at a
time, and each end lapped under the preceding strand; proceed with the
remaining strands, cutting one off at a time until only one remains to
finish the center with. When the crown tip is completed, push the
remaining end through a hole in the center of the crown tip and sew to
the inside of the crown. When using this kind of braid the operation may
be reversed, beginning at the center of the top and covering a small
circle of buckram with braid; press it with a warm iron to flatten it,
then sew in place on the crown and complete the covering. This seems the
easier method, because the top of the crown will look much better if
pressed and this will be found hard to do unless begun on a small
separate piece of buckram.
TO PIECE BRAID--
Sometimes a braid must be pieced at a conspicuous point on the hat, when
careful handling will be found necessary. If the braid is composed of
several smaller braids sewed together, the ends should be ripped apart
for several inches and the strands cut in unequal lengths; also the
strands of the other end which is to be joined to it should be cut of
such length as to meet the corresponding ends and allow a lap of one
inch. The ends cut in this way may be tucked under one at a time without
the joining being noticeable. If the braid is very wide it may seem best
when covering a frame to cut and join the ends of the row of braid. It
would then be better to make a straight joining in the back.
If a fancy braid is to be pieced, the ends are lapped diagonally and
sewed flat. If a fancy joining is part of the design, a simple one is to
lap the ends to look as though woven. This may be employed on a crown or
brim or both, and it then becomes a part of the design. Also the top of
the crown or any part of the hat may have a woven covering of braid, but
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