upt curve, until the correct lap is reached, usually
one-eighth of an inch. There will be found a thread at the edge of most
braids which may be pulled up to take out the extra fullness when sewed
on a curve. The outside edge of the first row must be left free for the
edge of the fabric, which covers the other side, to be slipped under. Do
not begin sewing until the second row is basted in place.

TO SEW--

Bring the needle through the edge of the braid at the lap from the under
side and take a tiny stitch, stabbing the needle through the braid and
the buckram; the small stitch on the right side will be hidden if the
thread is not pulled too tight. Take a stitch on the wrong side from
one-quarter to one-half an inch in length, depending upon the width and
quality of the braid. Continue basting and sewing the braid until the
headsize is reached and the braid extends up above the headsize wire one
inch. If the brim is wider at some points than at others, the wider side
must be filled in with short strips following the same curve, being
careful that the ends are left long enough to extend up beyond the
headsize wire one inch. When the brim is very much wider at some points,
short pieces of braid may be worked in at intervals as the braid is
sewed; this would not make such an abrupt curve, and the general lines
of the braid would be more pleasing.

When one side of the brim is to be covered with fabric, fit this to the
brim, baste at the headsize wire and cut the edge, allowing one-quarter
of an inch to lap over the edge. Remove the basting from the first row
of braid and tuck the edge of the fabric under. Pin and slipstitch to
place through the straw.

BOTH SIDES OF BRIM COVERED WITH BRAID--

Allow the first rows to project slightly beyond the edge of the brim
both on the top and the bottom. These edges may be brought together
with a small slanting stitch, or if preferred the edge may be first
bound with a bias piece of satin, or with a row of braid or gay-colored
material. If the edge of the brim is bound, the edges of the first rows
of braid at the top and bottom would not meet. The bound edge thus
showing gives the effect of a cord.

TO COVER A CROWN WITH BRAID--

Begin at the bottom of the crown, slanting the second row off from the
first row the same as on the brim. Pull the braid up with the thread
(which will be found on the edge of nearly every braid) and sew until
the center of the crown tip is reach