ils used may have a
simple wide hem sewed down by hand or an applied hem. The applied hem is
much the handsomer finish.

APPLIED HEM ON A VEIL--

For a hem three inches wide, cut a strip six inches in width and long
enough to reach around the edge of the veil plus three inches for each
corner. It takes that much extra length to mitre a corner of a
rectangular veil.

Fold this strip lengthwise in the middle and baste with fine running
stitches one inch from the fold to hold the fold flat. Measure this
strip at the edge of the veil to locate the place where the fold must be
mitred at the corners. Cut a V-shaped piece from this fold to within
one-quarter of an inch of the fold. Cut through both thicknesses. Sew
these raw edges together in a seam one-quarter of an inch deep and the
result will be a mitred corner. Each corner should be carefully planned
and mitred before sewing to the veil. Next turn both raw edges down
toward the inside one-quarter of an inch and baste separately. Slip the
edge of the veil between, pin carefully in place, baste and slipstitch
the edges to the veil. Both edges may be stitched at the same time. If
this work is carefully done, the result more than repays the time spent
upon it.

The veil is a very important part of the hat and may be adjusted in any
becoming way. It may form part of the covering of the hat, and is then
arranged in becoming folds toward the back and allowed to fall to any
desired length. It makes a becoming background for the face. Mourning
millinery is not used as much as formerly, but those who desire to
adhere to the custom will find the style little changed.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 98-1: See chapter on "Flowers."]

CHAPTER IX

REMODELING AND RENOVATING

STRAW SHAPES--

BRIM--Brush well to remove all the dust. If the brim is too wide, a few
rows of braid may be removed from the edge, and the edge refinished with
one or more rows of ornamental braid of the same color. If it seems
necessary to use an edge wire, this last row of braid may be made to
cover it, or a bias fold of satin, silk, velvet, or ribbon may be sewed
over the wire.

CROWN--When the crown of a straw hat is found to be too low for the
present style, the crown may be ripped from the brim, a narrow piece of
buckram sewed to the bottom of the crown and then sewed back to the
brim. Of course trimming must be planned to cover up this buckram. If
the crown is too high, a few rows of braid