size wire the required size and sew back on the brim. Trim the outer
edge of the brim and add the edge wire. The same thing may be done to
the crown. If too large, divide into halves and lap the edges until it
is the required size, or a piece of material may be added to make the
crown larger. The crown may be lowered by cutting a piece from the base,
or raised by adding a piece of heavy material at the base. When a
fabric-covered brim is changed it will be found difficult to use the old
covering, but it can sometimes be done.
BLOCKING OVER WIRE FRAMES--
If a buckram frame needs changing radically, it may be done by blocking
over a wire frame made for the purpose. The wire frame should have six
sticks instead of four, and circles not more than one inch apart, shaped
as desired. Old or new buckram, neteen, or any coarse material which has
been heavily starched, may be used. Wet the fabric thoroughly with warm
water.
Block the crown first. Place the material over the crown and pull it
down until all the wrinkles are removed, pin closely to the headsize
wire all around. When dry, mark with a pencil all around close to the
headsize wire, remove from the frame, cut on the pencil mark and sew a
headsize wire on the edge. If there are marks of the wire to be removed,
hold a cloth on the inside of the crown and press lightly with a hot
iron. The brim is managed in the same way. Mark at the headsize, cut off
at this point one-half inch inside the mark, and sew a headsize wire on
the pencil mark. Mark at the edge wire, cut off at the pencil mark, and
finish with edge wire.
NEW BRIMS FOR OLD CROWNS--
If the brim of a hat is past renewing, a new one may be made, or the
wire brim from an old hat may be used with a crown of velvet, or any
fabric or straw. The wire brim may be re-covered with georgette--an old,
half-worn waist will do nicely, using the back or sleeves, or any
portions that are not too badly worn. When a heavier crown is used, the
edge of a sheer brim should have a fold of material like the crown
sewed at the edge, or a row of straw when the crown is of straw braid.
FELT AND BEAVER HATS--
When soiled, clean with gasoline and cornmeal. To restore the gloss, rub
the hat with a very fine piece of sandpaper which has been tacked over a
small block of wood. Rub with the nap. To complete the process, remove
the sandpaper and substitute a piece of velvet. Rub this on a hot iron,
then on beeswax. Continue t
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