MADE ON BUCKRAM FOUNDATION]

[Illustration: SECOND METHOD OF MAKING AN ORCHID CENTER (see page 91)]

PLEATINGS

A pleating is difficult and requires patience. Unless accurately made,
it should never be used on a hat, for upon its accuracy depends its
attractiveness. The simplest pleating is a side pleating. This may be
made from paper or stiff muslin for practice work. There should not be a
thread's difference in the width of each pleat. Any simple pleating
requires three times the length of the space it is to cover. If a
half-inch pleating is to be made, the folds will come every one and
one-half inches. As each fold is laid, baste it down with silk thread.
Press slightly on the wrong side before using.

BOX PLEATING--

This is made by turning the first pleat to the left and the next to the
right. The same amount of material is required as for side pleating. If
the pleats are to be one-half inch deep, the box pleat will be _one_
inch across. Baste with silk thread at the top and bottom, and press on
the wrong side. A simple box pleating may be basted through the center
and the edges caught together.

DOUBLE OR TRIPLE BOX-PLEATING--

This is made by adding one or more pleats, one on top of the other.
Begin by making two or more pleats turning to the left, then the same
number turning to the right. Be very accurate, being careful to keep the
box pleat the exact width desired. Baste at the top and bottom. This
pleating is nearly always used by basting through the center, after
having slightly pressed. The top and bottom bastings are then removed.
The pleating may be caught together at top and bottom of box pleat, and
it is then known as _rose pleating_.

RADIATING--

This is the most difficult pleating to fashion, but very handsome
ornaments are made in this way. A foundation of buckram is usually
required to sew the pleats on as they are laid. The two illustrations
given will suffice. After these two examples are correctly copied, other
models and original designs can be easily made.

FOUNDATIONS OF BUCKRAM--

The foundation for the second is in the shape of a low pyramid made from
buckram. Cut a small circle of buckram, slash in three equally distant
places from the outer edge to within one-eighth of an inch of the
center. Lap a small amount and sew. Three rows or more of pleating may
be used on this ornament. An ordinary ornament will require about five
yards of inch-wide ribbon. The first ro