w would be placed near the
outside edge of the buckram and each pleat sewed as it is laid. The
pleating should radiate from the center. To do this, the inside of the
pleating will lap more than the outside. The next row will overlap this
first row and the same method will be used. The pleating may be tested
by holding a ruler on a line between the top and the lower edge of the
pleating. The pleats should all be on a straight line between these
points. The last or finishing row is the most difficult of all. The
pleats at the apex should meet, and pleats at the lower overlapping edge
be on a line with the rest of the pleating. A tiny bow or button is
sometimes used to finish the top, but it is much handsomer if finished
without either bow or button.

POMPONS

Maline pompons make a very pretty ornament for any hat. They may be made
perfectly round or elongated like the illustration. Several thicknesses
of the material may be cut at one time. The shape of the pieces for the
elongated pompon would be cut like pattern "a." Each piece is folded
lengthwise of the material, and this fold is fastened to a wire which
has been previously wound with maline. The edges of these pieces are
left raw, and enough are used to make the pompon appear quite compact.

RIBBON ROSETTES

There are many different kinds of rosettes made from ribbon. Sometimes
several loops of ribbon are made very close together and wound with
thread as they are gathered. A very pretty rosette is made of narrow
ribbon one-quarter of an inch wide. Many loops three inches long or more
of this width ribbon may be fastened to a small piece of buckram. A knot
placed at the end of each loop adds to its attractiveness.

ROSETTES FROM OLD PLUMES--

An old plume may be used to make trimming for a hat by cutting it from
the quill with a very sharp knife or razor blade, retaining a small
portion of the quill which will be sufficient to hold the feathers
together. This should be sewed onto a fine wire, and it may then be
wound into a rosette. A small flower placed in the center is a pleasing
addition.

CHAPTER VIII

HAND-MADE FLOWERS

FLOWERS

MATERIAL REQUIRED:

Tie wire, green
Gum tissue, brown and green
Cotton batting
Milliner's glue
Yellow stamens
Dark green tissue paper

Flowers may be made from almost any fabric--satin, velvet, georgette,
maline, ribbon, soft leather, oilcloth, yarn, and chenille. A scrapbag
for odds and