ld to be stretched slightly when used. The fold when
finished should not twist or look as if it had a stitch in it.

Another separate single fold may be added to this; it is then called a
French fold. The milliner's fold has many uses, such as finishing the
edge of hats, and the bottom of crowns, to cover the joining of the hat
to the brim. It is used sometimes around the top of a square crown and
is much used in mourning millinery, when it is made of crepe.

BOWS

For the inexperienced in bow-making there is no better plan than to copy
many different styles of bows, using either tissue paper or cheap
cambric, as ribbons are ruined by being made over too many times.
Bow-making is sometimes quite difficult for an amateur, while for some
students of millinery it is very easy, but any one with patience may
become quite expert in time.

Cut the tissue paper or cambric the exact width of the ribbon which is
to be used. In this way the exact amount of ribbon may be determined,
as well as the length of each loop. If a stiff, smart-looking bow is to
be made, fold the ribbon in loops before pleating. If a soft-looking or
puffy, "fat"-looking bow is desired, pleat the ribbon singly before
making the loops. The soft bow is often used for children's hats. After
the desired number of loops is made, wind a strong thread around the
center and over this wrap the remaining end of ribbon around the center
several times until the center is filled up sufficiently to look well.

BOWS OF MALINE--

Maline is one of the most beautiful materials used in millinery and it
lends itself to many uses. Hat frames are covered with maline; it is
used to cover wings to keep feathers in place; to cover faded or
worn-out flowers; for shirred brims and crowns; for pleatings; for folds
on edges of brims to give a soft look; and for bows.

A bow of maline requires wiring with a very small tie wire or lace wire.
The wire may be caught in a fold at the edge of the loops, or the loops
may be made double with the wire caught inside.

WIRED RIBBON BOWS--

Ribbon is sometimes wired if a stiff effect is desired. Silk, satin,
velvet, or any kind of ribbon can be used. The flat ribbon wire is
sometimes pasted between two ribbons with milliner's glue. Often two
colors are rather effectively used in this way. The wire may also be
stitched to one edge of the ribbon. This is done by turning the ribbon
over the wire at the edge and stitching on the sewin