o
small for the head.

TAILORED LINING--

This lining is rather the most popular lining used. Large firms send
their material away to be made up for their trade and the linings may be
bought ready-made, but almost every one has pieces of silk which may be
easily made into one of these linings.

Cut an oval of crinoline two-thirds as large as the top of crown, baste
a piece of silk lining over this. Pin this on top of the crown, as this
can best be fitted on the outside and should be done before the hat is
made. Now cut a piece of bias material long enough to reach around the
bottom of the crown wide enough to meet this crown tip at all points.
After pinning it to the crown tip, turn up one-quarter of an inch at the
bottom and pin to the bottom of the crown. Stretch snugly because the
inside of the crown is smaller; pin the fullness to the crown top all
around, gather between pins, and baste in place. Stitch on the machine.
This seam may be corded or a small cord sewed on to cover the seam.

Linings may be made of taffeta, china silk, satin, sateen or of almost
any material which is not too heavy. When a wire frame is covered with
thin material and the frame shows through, the hat should have a thin
lining. If the hat is covered with maline, use a maline lining; if with
georgette, a georgette lining should be used.

CHAPTER VII

TRIMMINGS

MILLINER'S FOLD--

Cut from a piece of velvet, satin, or any fabric which is to be used, a
bias strip one and one-half inches wide and of the desired length. This
must be on a true bias, which is found by placing the warp and woof
threads parallel. Any other bias is called a garment bias. Hold the
wrong side toward you and turn the bottom edge up on the wrong side
toward you and up to the center and baste close to the edge. The basting
thread must be loose enough to permit the fold to be stretched. Leave
the basting in. Next fold the other raw edge down until the two edges
meet, but do not baste. Fold again, keeping this last fold one-quarter
of an inch or a little less from the other folded edge. Hold in place
and slipstitch down. Slip the needle through the edge of the fold and
take a long stitch, then, going down through to the other side, take a
short stitch. Come back through a little under the fold to hide the
stitch. Slip the needle along the edge of the fold as before, and
continue in this manner. The thread should be kept loose all the way to
permit the fo