ew
it is an advertisement, the place where we find the designer's name. A
well-fitted lining, whether of somber or gay colored silk, enhances the
value of a hat. Sometimes we find a tiny sachet rosebud sewed to the
lining, or a little lace-trimmed pocket for the veil.

There are three popular kinds of linings--

Plain lining
French lining
Tailored lining

PLAIN LINING--

This should be made of a bias strip of material cut the length of the
headsize wire, plus one inch for seam. The width should be the same as
the crown height plus two and one-half inches.

[Illustration: SHOWING METHOD OF COVERING CROWN WITH TWO-INCH WIDE BIAS
SATIN. CORD SEWED IN ONE EDGE; THE OTHER EDGE IS GATHERED AND PULLED UP
TO FIT CROWN]

Fold one end over one-half inch and pin to the back of the hat; fold
the edge of the material down one-quarter of an inch around the inside
of the crown as close as possible to the edge without showing when the
hat is on the head. Pin in place all the way round and slipstitch the
two ends together; then begin at the seam and slipstitch the lining in
place. The method is to bring the needle from the underside of the
lining through the edge of the fold, catch a few threads of material on
the hat opposite this thread, and put the needle back through the fold
at the same point; bring the needle through the fold one-half inch from
the first stitch and proceed in this manner until the seam is reached.
Turn the other raw edge down one-half inch to the wrong side and make a
running stitch one-quarter inch from the folded edge in which a narrow
ribbon should be run, and drawn down as much as necessary to make the
lining fit the crown. A crown tip is used with this lining, which is
made of a piece of silk four inches square, sewed or glued to the inside
of the crown top. On this piece the designer's name is usually found.

FRENCH LINING--

This lining is made from an oval piece of silk which corresponds to the
crown measurements. Measure the crown from front to back and from side
to side, adding one inch to these measurements. Fit a small wire to the
inside of the hat at the headsize and tie. Lap the edge of the silk over
the wire one-quarter of an inch. Gather the silk close to the wire using
a small running stitch. After completed, pin in place and slipstitch to
the crown. This lining will reduce the headsize of any hat somewhat, so
it should never be used if there is any danger of making the hat to