back crease and the exact center front of wire on the front crease; next
pin the sides securely, being careful to keep the wire shaped to fit the
head. Allow one-half inch inside of wire and slash every half inch out
to headsize wire. The pattern may now be tried on the head for any
necessary alterations. The brim pattern may be added to or cut away.

WORKING MEASUREMENTS NEEDED--

Make a pencil mark on the pattern around the headsize wire. Before
removing the wire, mark the eight different points where it crosses the
creases in the paper pattern. Remove the wire from the pattern.

STICKS FOR BRIM--

Straighten and cut four pieces of frame wire the length of the diameter
of the brim plus three inches for finishing. Place one of these sticks
across the headsize wire from front to back on the marks made by the
pencil, allowing the ends to extend an equal length. Fasten to the
headsize wire with tie wire. Place the next stick from side to side,
joining on the pencil marks. The two remaining sticks when placed on the
remaining marks divide the circle into eighths. This is called the
skeleton of the brim; the wires are named _front_, _back_, _right side_,
_left side_, _right side front_, _right side back_, _left side front_,
_left side back_. The position of these ends or spokes should correspond
to the creases in the paper pattern, and the length of each one should
be determined by measuring the corresponding crease on the pattern.

EDGE WIRE--

Cut a circle of brace wire the exact length of the circumference of the
brim plus one inch for lap and tie. Lay this close to the edge of the
pattern and mark on it with pencil where each crease touches it, always
keeping the tied ends on the back crease. If these measurements are
carefully made, the brim will be exactly like the pattern.

TO JOIN EDGE WIRE--

Begin at the back and place the mark on the edge wire on the back spoke
at the pencil mark. Twist the end of the spoke once and a half around
the edge wire, using the jaws of the pliers to tighten the twist. Cut
the end off close and press the cut end flat with the pliers. Next
finish the center front spoke, then the sides and those in between. A
great deal depends upon accuracy in making an acceptable wire frame. Add
as many circles of wire between the edge wire and the headsize wire as
desired, fastening to the spokes with tie wire. Keep all wire laps at
the back on the center spoke.

COLLAR OF BRIM--