d.

Locate the exact center of the crown top and cut a small hole at this
point. Pull thread of the smallest circle up tight. This will form a bag
which should be pulled down through the hole made at the center of the
crown top and sewed securely in place. The material should be pinned
down at four equal points at the edge of the crown, the threads of the
other circles pulled up until the material fits the crown snugly. Adjust
the fullness evenly and sew in place. This is an excellent way to use up
old material which would otherwise show marks or any other defects.

The second method does not make as pleasing an effect, but may be used
when the material happens to be in such shape that a circle cannot be
cut from it. A bias strip about eight inches wide and long enough to
reach around the crown, plus three or four inches, should be joined on
the lengthwise thread of the material. The first shirring or gathering
should be one-half inch from the edge, the additional threads should be
run in evenly every half inch. The first thread near the edge should
then be drawn up as tightly as possible and this edge pushed through the
hole in the top of the crown. This method will require a somewhat larger
opening than the first. The material is then drawn down on the outside
and pinned to the bottom of the crown; the threads are then pulled tight
and firm and are fastened off. Next adjust the gathers evenly and sew in
place.

CHAPTER III

FRAMES OF NETEEN AND CRINOLINE

Lay the pattern on the neteen in such a way as to bring the bias where
the greatest amount of roll is to be, then cut making the same
allowances as if cut from buckram. This material should be used double
to secure the best results. Cut one thickness first and pin this on
another piece in such a way that the warp thread of one piece will lie
parallel to the woof thread of the other. Cut the two pieces the same
size and before removing the pins baste closely all over the brim with
fine thread, making one inch stitches. Fine thread should be used for
this as a coarse thread might show through the covering.

TO JOIN THE SEAM IN THE BACK--

Insert one thickness between the other two ends, and backstitch closely.
This method ought to make a fairly smooth seam. Cover the seam with a
strip of crinoline to smooth it up.

TO SEW EDGE WIRE ON NETEEN--

It is difficult to sew edge wire on neteen. A good result is obtained,
however, by sewing the wire dire