-looking
on under side after sewing, it may be pressed down with a hot iron. If
done quickly and lightly, it will not show on the right side.

[Illustration: SHOWING METHOD OF FITTING FABRIC TO SHAPED BRIM]

TO FACE UNDER SIDE OF BRIM--

Pin velvet on under side, using same method in pinning as that on top of
brim. This must be pinned very carefully. Cut off velvet all around
edge, leaving a little _less_ than one-fourth inch to turn under.
Facings are usually finished at the edge with a wire. Cut a piece of
frame wire the exact circumference of the brim, plus one inch for lap.
Bend to shape of brim and pin under edge of velvet, beginning at the
center back. Roll velvet over wire and bring out to edge. Pin in place
all the way around before beginning to sew. Place pins in at right
angles to brim. A piece of velvet held in the left hand will prevent
finger marks from showing on the velvet. Begin to sew at left of wire
joining, while holding underside of brim towards you. Bring needle
through from back close under wire. With the head of the needle press
velvet along under wire to make a crease or sort of bed for the thread
of the next stitch. Take nearly a half-inch stitch by placing needle
close under the wire and coming through between the wire and the upper
facing. Come back under the wire with a very small back stitch, being
careful to adjust the wire as you sew, and to catch a little of the
upper covering with each back stitch. When wire joining is reached,
treat the lapped ends as one wire. Fasten ends securely by taking
several small back stitches. Lace wire, being smaller than frame wire,
is sometimes used to finish the edge of facing. It does not look as
heavy, but is somewhat more difficult for a beginner to handle.

[Illustration: SHOWING UNDER FACING OF BRIM PINNED OVER WIRE READY TO
SEW IN PLACE]

TO COVER CROWN TOP--

To cover the top, cut a piece of velvet with the bias at the front, same
shape as top of crown plus one inch all around. Gather one-fourth inch
from edge, place over top, equalize the gathers, pin in place, and sew
with stab stitch over line of gathering. Make the edge lie as flat as
possible and do not draw velvet too tight across the top.

TO COVER SIDE CROWN--

Cut a piece of velvet on a true bias two and one-half inches wider than
height of crown. Pin this strip wrong side out around side crown to find
length and to locate seam. Draw it snugly and pin seam on straight of
mat