r a wire crown.

TO COVER ROUND CROWN--

Pin material on top of crown with bias at front. Pull with the straight
of the material and pin just below edge of curve. Sew one-half inch
below this with stab stitch, trim material off close under this
stitching. Remove pins. Fit a bias piece of material, using same method
and measurements as for side crown of velvet sailor in chapter II. Sew
the crown to brim before adjusting the side crown covering. Pull this
bias piece over crown and pin smoothly in place. Finish top and bottom
of this band by turning the edges over a wire. Use same stitch as in
finishing edge of facing on brim.[13-1] This makes a neat finish for a
hat which will demand little trimming. If the amateur finds it too
difficult to finish the bottom of a side crown in this way, the edge may
be covered with a fold of material or a narrow ribbon; the top may also
be finished by a narrow ribbon, but finishing neatly with a wire should
be mastered if possible, as this style of finish is used in many places.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 7-1: To cut wire see chapter IV.]

[Footnote 7-2: To tie wire see chapter IV.]

[Footnote 13-1: See chapter II.]

CHAPTER II

COVERING FRAME WITH VELVET

Material required one and one-half yards milliner's velvet or any velvet
eighteen to twenty-four inches wide. If velvet used is thirty-six inches
wide, one yard will be sufficient.

TO COVER BRIM--

Place corner of velvet at front of brim on top side (smooth side).
Edgewire and headsize wire should always be on top of brim. Turn velvet
over edge of brim and pin. Stick pins through at right angles to brim to
avoid marring the velvet. Pin closely all around edge of brim, pulling
material with the thread to remove any fullness. Do not pull tight
enough to bend the brim. Trim velvet off one-fourth inch to turn under
brim. Baste close to headsize wire on top with stab stitch. Cut velvet
out inside of headsize wire, leaving a half inch to slash and turn up
with the buckram.

TO SEW VELVET EDGE TO BRIM--

This should be done with a close overcasting stitch on the under side,
being careful not to prick through to the right side of the velvet. It
is sometimes advisable in preparing the frame to stitch the buckram in
from the edge about one-fourth inch with the sewing machine, using a
long stitch. This stitching may then be used to put the needle through
when sewing the velvet down. If the velvet seems thick and heavy