ullness should be worked
out. If this is found to be very difficult, lay the brim aside, with the
velvet pinned on, for an hour or for overnight, and the velvet will be
found to give a little more. Remove as much of the length as possible.
Locate seam, remove from frame, sew seam, and replace as before. Sew on
top close to headsize wire, working out all the fullness possible; pull
under part up into headsize. Sew one-fourth inch above headsize wire
onto the flaps, being careful not to pull the thread too tight or the
headsize wire will be reduced in size.

FACINGS--

A pleasing variety is sometimes obtained by using a colored underfacing
on a black hat. The entire facing may be of a contrasting color or
extend only from headsize wire to within an inch of the edge of the
brim. In this case there could be a strip of material the same as upper
facing an inch and a half wide finished at the edge of the brim with a
wire. Then the colored facing would be finished over the edge of this
with another wire.

BRIMS COVERED WITH TWO KINDS OF FABRIC--

A flat brim or mushroom shape is often covered by using two fabrics,
which may be of the same color or of contrasting colors. Small pieces of
old material may often be conserved in this manner and the hat at the
same time have much charm. For instance, the edge of the hat could have
a bias band of satin, two or more inches wide, stretched around the edge
of the brim, with the rest of the brim covered with velvet overlapping
the satin and finished with a wire both on top and bottom, or only on
one side. Underside of brim may be finished the same way, or the facing
may be brought out even with the edge and finished with a wire.

SHAPED BRIM FOUNDATION--

The simplest _shaped_ brim is the mushroom style.

TO MAKE PATTERN FOR BRIM--

Make a paper pattern the same as for the straight brim sailor. Measure
the same for the headsize wire, join ends of wire, shape to fit the
head, and pin on paper pattern of any desired width. To make the brim
droop, slash the pattern from the edge to the headsize wire in four
different places equally distant. Lap these slashes one-fourth inch at
the edge, and pin. The pattern may also be slashed in eight or more
different places if desired, the slashes being adjusted by lapping more
or less according to the amount of droop which may be becoming.

After the pattern is adjusted satisfactorily, mark with a pencil all
around just inside the hea