erial with warp thread. (Warp thread is parallel with selvage.)
Remove velvet and stitch seam. Open it and press by drawing it over the
edge of a hot iron.
TO SEW CROWN ON BRIM--
The simplest way to proceed is to sew the crown on the brim before
adjusting the side crown covering. Pin back, front, and each side of
crown to brim, placing seams at back. Sew through upturned flaps of brim
and crown one-fourth inch from bottom wire. Stretch the velvet strip for
side crown on the crown, placing seam at back, unless trimming has been
planned which will cover the seam better if it is placed at some other
point. Turn top and bottom edges under to fit the side crown, and press
bottom fold down close to brim. If this band has been fitted tight
enough, it will not be found necessary to sew it.
EDGE OF BRIM FACING, WHEN FINISHED WITHOUT WIRE--
A brim covered with velvet or any fabric may also be finished underneath
without a wire, the edges being slipstitched together. In this case, the
underfacing would be turned under one-fourth inch and pinned in place
all the way around before beginning to sew. Bring the needle through
from underside of facing to the very edge of fold. Place point of needle
directly opposite this stitch and take a small stitch in upper facing,
then take a small stitch in underfacing. Each stitch always begins just
opposite the ending of preceding stitch, so that the thread between the
two facings crosses the seam at right angles to edge of brim. This
method makes the work look smooth, and also it will not pull out of
place; however, this style of finishing an edge is not popular and
requires much practice.
TO COVER NARROW BRIM SAILOR WITHOUT AN EDGE SEAM--
This method can be used satisfactorily only when the brim is narrow,
and the fabric pliable. For convenience we will give measurements as for
a two and one-half inch brim, flat sailor, outside edge measuring forty
inches. Cut a bias piece of velvet forty inches long and seven inches
wide. Fold this velvet through center lengthwise and stick pins every
three inches through edge of fold at right angles to edge and close to
edge. This is to mark the line that must be placed on the edge of the
brim. If the velvet is not placed evenly, there will be found a greater
amount of fullness on one side than on the other. Place velvet over the
brim and pin on edge at points marked by pins. Stretch as tight as
possible. On a brim of this width all of the f
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