for a new pattern. This eliminates some of the
slashes and makes further experiments easier. Pattern-making is very
important, and it is of extreme value to make as many patterns as
possible before cutting the foundation fabric. Changing a pattern the
slightest sometimes makes a great deal of difference in its
becomingness. Of course a brim may be changed by adding a slash or two
in the buckram, or by inserting a V shape to give more flare, but the
fewer seams the better for the hat frame. A rolled or close-fitting brim
is more difficult to cover than a sailor or mushroom shape.

TO COVER A CLOSE-FITTING OR ROLLED BRIM--

Place corner of material on top of brim at front and pin on the edge.
Always use the same method of pinning on the edge as given in the first
lesson. Draw the material down to the headsize wire and pin. Work the
material out smoothly toward the left and pin at the edge; also at the
headsize wire. Then proceed in the same way toward the right, always
pinning closely. Be _sure_ to keep the material tight and smooth both at
edge and at the headsize wire. Allow the fullness to go where it will.
The seam should be located at the center back. Cut away all superfluous
material, allowing three-eighths of an inch seam at the center back.
Turn the raw edges under away from each other at the seam and
slipstitch together neatly.

TO SLIPSTITCH SEAM--

Bring needle through edge of fold on one side and enter the needle
through edge of fold on other side exactly opposite. Slip needle along
in this fold one-eighth of an inch, then bring the needle through to the
edge of the fold and take a stitch one-eighth of an inch long in the
fold of the other side, always being careful to begin the stitch exactly
opposite the end of the one preceding. Try to cut the material out from
inside the headsize wire in one piece so that it may be used for
something else. Examine the material carefully to make sure that it fits
perfectly. Baste with a stab stitch close to the headsize wire on the
outside; remove all pins as soon as possible. After basting this, you
will sometimes find that the material needs a little more adjusting at
the edge. Turn the velvet over the edge one-fourth inch and sew down
with an overcasting stitch.

TO GLUE VELVET TO THE BRIM--

When there is a decided roll to a brim, it is sometimes most difficult
to keep the velvet smooth and to make it lie close to the brim, so we
resort to milliner's glue.