to right side. Repeat all the way around until lap is reached. Fasten
thread by taking several stitches close together over ends of wire in
order to join neatly and prevent their working loose. Slash buckram
inside headsize wire every half inch and turn pieces up. This makes
small flaps to which crown may be fastened later. The brim may now be
tried on and changes made if necessary.

EDGE WIRE--

This is cut from frame wire and must be long enough to reach around edge
of brim and lap one inch. Edge wire is always sewed on same side of brim
as the headsize wire, which is usually the smooth side. Shape this wire
to conform to shape of brim. Never depend on the hat or the stitches to
hold a wire in place. Begin at center-back of hat holding wire toward
you, and sewing from right to left. Hold wire as near the edge as
possible, without letting it slip over the edge. Sew on with overcasting
stitch, taking two stitches in same hole. Take the stitches just the
depth of the wire. If too shallow, the wire will slip off over the edge,
or, if too deep, the wire will slip back away from the edge leaving it
unprotected and liable to become broken and uneven-looking. A frame must
be well made in every detail to produce satisfactory results when
finished.

TO COVER EDGE WIRE--All edge wire must be covered with crinoline or a
cheap muslin. Cut a strip of such goods on a true bias, three-eighths of
an inch wide. Remove the selvage and stretch the strip. Bind the edge
wire with it, holding it very tight. Sew close to wire using a stab
stitch.

RIGHT SIDE--WRONG SIDE--

This stitch is made by taking a long stitch on right side and then a
short back stitch on wrong side. Lap ends of crinoline one-fourth inch
at finish, but do not turn ends under.

SQUARE CROWN--

A square crown is one having a flat top, or one only slightly rounded,
with the sides slightly sloping in towards the top. A crown of this type
three or three and one-half inches in height would be at least one and
one-half inches smaller at the top than at the bottom. Any crown made
separately from the brim must be large enough to cover the headsize wire
on the brim at the base. To eliminate any slashes or seams in the side
crown, a paper pattern should be made. Following paragraphs explain how
this is done.

PATTERN FOR SLANTING SIDE CROWN--

Cut a piece of manila paper one-fourth inch wider than crown height and
one-half inch longer than headsize wire measure