woolens.

[Sidenote: Goat Wools]

Alpaca, Vicuna and Llama wools are obtained from animals which are
native to the mountains of Peru and Chile. The Angora goat, originally
from Asia Minor, furnishes the mohair of commerce. This fiber does not
resemble the hairs of common goats in any respect. It is a very
beautiful fiber of silky luster, which constitutes its chief value.

[Illustration: ANGORA GOATS]

[Sidenote: Fur]

The fur of beavers and rabbits can be and is used in manufacture, either
spun into yarn or made into felt. The fibers of both animals enter
largely into the manufacture of felt hats.

[Sidenote: Sorting Wool]

The fleece of sheep after being sheared is divided into different parts
or _sorted_, according to the quality of the wool, the best wool coming
from the sides of the animal.

[Illustration: WOOL FIBERS

_a_--Medium Wool; _b_--Camel's Hair; _c_--Diseased Fiber; _d_--Merino
Wool; _e_--Mohair.]

[Sidenote: Scouring Wool]

As it comes from the sheep, the wool contains many substances besides
the wool fiber which must be removed before dyeing or spinning. This
cleansing is called _scouring_. Before scouring, the wool is usually
dusted by machines to remove all loose dirt. The scouring must be done
by the mildest means possible in order to preserve the natural
fluffiness and brilliancy of the fiber. The chief impurity is the wool
grease or "yolk" which is secreted by the skin glands to lubricate the
fiber and prevent it from matting.

[Illustration: ONE METHOD OF WOOL SORTING

1--The Best Grade; 2--Lowest Grade; 3--Fair; 4--Medium Grade.]

[Sidenote: Scouring Agents]

In the scouring of wool, soap is the principal agent. Soft soap made
from caustic potash is generally used as it is less harmful than
ordinary hard soda soap. Potassium carbonate--"pearl ash"--is often used
in connection with the soap. If the water for scouring is hard, it is
softened with pearl ash. The temperature of wash water is never allowed
to go above 120 deg. F. The scoured wool weighs from a little over a half to
one-third or less of the weight of the fleece.

[Sidenote: Hydroscopic Moisture]

Wool has the remarkable property of absorbing up to 30 per cent or more
of its weight of water and yet not feel perceptibly damp to the touch.
This is called "hydroscopic moisture." To this property wool owes its
superiority as a textile for underclothing.

[Illustration: WOOL SORTING]

The thoroughly