The same marker may be used to mark the position for the buttons. All
markings for buttons and buttonholes, or for hooks and eyes, should be
made at one time.
[Sidenote: Overcasting Buttonholes]
After cutting, the button holes are overcast. This should always be done
directly after cutting, especially if the goods ravels easily, otherwise
it will be impossible to work a neat buttonhole. Overcasting should be
done with very fine thread (No. 150 for white goods), split silk for
wool and silk. Three overcast stitches on each side are sufficient for
an ordinary size buttonhole.
A very good plan to follow in cutting a buttonhole in heavy material or
material that frays easily is to chalk the position and length of the
buttonhole, then stitch a row of machine stitching each side of this
mark, the two rows being a little more than one-eighth of an inch apart.
This holds all the thicknesses together and the buttonhole may then be
cut easily. It also serves as a guide in working the buttonhole
stitches.
[Illustration: BUTTONS, BUTTON HOLES, EYELETS, LOOPS]
The buttonholing is begun at the inner side of the slit. Always place
the knot on the outside of the garment a short distance to the right of
the buttonhole, leaving a long stitch underneath which can be cut off
when the buttonhole is finished. A buttonhole should be completed with
one thread if possible as it is difficult to mend the thread securely
and neatly. Letter D for twist is usually employed.
[Sidenote: Making Buttonholes]
Insert the needle in the edge of the material and when half way through,
take the two threads at the eye of the needle, bringing them towards you
at the right and under the point of the needle, and draw the thread from
you, making the purl or loop stitch directly on the edge of the
buttonhole. The stitches should be about the width of the needle apart
to allow for the purl. Be careful to complete each stitch with a uniform
movement so that the line will be perfectly straight and not wavy. The
stitches are placed more closely together in the rounded end of the
buttonhole where the chief wear comes.
[Sidenote: Staying]
Many workers, particularly tailors, always "stay" or "bar" around a
buttonhole before working. This may be done with several threads of
twist or with a cord so that the worked edge of the buttonhole will be
firm and distinct. Tailors usually use a cord as this makes the edges
heavier. It is always well to stay
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