buttonholes in heavy material as it
strengthens them very much and improves their appearance.

[Sidenote: Bar Tack]

When the buttonhole has been worked all around, the end is completed
with a bar tack made by taking two or three stitches across the end of
the buttonhole, drawing the edges closer together. This bar is covered
with buttonhole stitches worked close together. The thread is fastened
securely on the wrong side.

[Sidenote: Large Buttonholes]

After very large buttonholes are finished, their straight edges should
be closely basted together by an over and over stitch and then pressed
under a damp cloth. Before they are dry, a bodkin or stiletto should be
pushed vigorously up through each eyelet until that opening becomes
perfectly round and the stitches on its edges are regular and distinct.
When the basting is removed, the buttonhole will be symmetrical in
appearance.

Buttonholes which are to bear a strain are cut in the direction of the
pull, but sometimes they are cut in the opposite direction, as for a
shirt waist. Such a buttonhole may be completed with a bar tack on each
end.

[Sidenote: Sewing on Buttons]

Ordinary buttons should never be sewed down tightly, but the thread
should be loose so that it may be wound around at the end, thus
protecting the holding threads from wear. The shank prevents the
buttonhole from being crowded out of shape. Loose sewing can most easily
be done by placing a pin or needle across the top of the button and
sewing over it. If a button is much concaved, the pin may be placed
underneath. The pin is removed before winding.

In sewing on a four-hole button, the stitches should be made
symmetrically, either parallel or crossed, but not both. If parallel or
in a two-holed button the stitches should run in the line of the
buttonhole. The thread should always be fastened at the beginning and at
the end of the work. Place the knot upon the outside of the garment
where it may be cut off when the button is sewed securely. The knot is
sometimes placed under the button.

[Sidenote: Cloak Buttons]

In sewing buttons on a cloak or coat an extra strip of canvas or silesia
over the canvas interlining should be placed the entire length of the
buttoning for strength. This should be applied before the work on the
garment is too far advanced and if cut sufficiently wide, will allow any
slight alteration. The sewing should go through the canvas facing and
stay, but not through t