edge of the skirt a quarter of
an inch from the turning line; apply the wrong side of the velveteen to
the right side of the skirt, baste carefully close to the edge and
stitch on the machine through velveteen, cloth, and lining (or facing)
just inside the basting which is left in. The bottom of the raw edge is
turned up, basted close to the edge allowing the velveteen to show a
very little. The upper edge of the velveteen is secured as before by
turning and hemming or catstitched without turning. The illustration
shows this method of applying the velveteen which is first stitched to
the lining and turned with the edge. This makes a firm, rather stiff
finish.
[Sidenote: Braid]
Braid is stitched on to the bottom of a skirt with a narrow edge
showing, or it may be applied like the velveteen, with a doubled edge at
the bottom. The doubled edge will wear better.
[Sidenote: Finish of Wash Skirts]
Skirts that are to be washed and therefore which are very likely to
shrink must be finished at the bottom with a wide hem--at least six
inches--the fullness made by turning being disposed of carefully in
pleats or gathers.
[Illustration: APPLYING VELVETEEN BINDING]
If desired, the bias seam down the back of the skirt may have a narrow
woven tape or selvage of thin goods stitched in with the seam. This
strengthens the seam and prevents dragging. The skirt when finished
should always be longer in front than in the back.
All cloth dresses demand every detail of finish to make them complete
and able to stand hard usage, but simple house dresses and thin summer
dresses do not require such careful finish.
SHIRT WAISTS
[Sidenote: Trace Seams]
In planning a waist the same rules should be observed in placing
patterns, etc., as described for skirts, except that the lines and seams
should be traced with a tracing wheel or marked carefully. In making a
waist of any kind care must be taken to cut all the pieces the proper
way of the material.
[Sidenote: Baste Lavishly]
The difficulty of putting garments together after they have been cut
properly is due to undue haste, lack of care in details and insufficient
pressing. The apparently simple act of basting is really of primal
importance, particularly in the making of a waist. One need never be
afraid of basting too much or too carefully. Economize cloth and time in
cutting, but use basting lavishly.
[Sidenote: Altering Waist Patterns]
The waist pattern may b
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