eeves must be so adjusted as
to conceal the inequality.
The sleeves should be made at the same time and before the cuffs, then
the cuffs, puffs, or whatever special trimming is to be applied to them
should be put on both sleeves at the same time. If the second sleeve is
not made or trimmed until after the first is finished, it will be much
more difficult to secure exactly the same effect. If it is impossible to
complete both sleeves at one time, make the sleeves one day and the
cuffs or trimming the next day.
In making the coat sleeves the general methods are the same, but each
season brings out new styles which the maker will have to understand
before proper making and finishing can be acquired. Always master the
simple and standard patterns and the minor changes dictated by
fashion--new fancies and effects--will not be difficult to acquire after
a little experience has been gained.
The lining for both sleeves should be fitted and the outside cut by
them.
[Sidenote: Joining the Parts]
After economical cutting, trace the seams carefully, and baste the
outside to the lining, basting both uppers before the under sections.
Join the under and upper parts by pinning and basting, the outside seam
first, beginning in the middle of the sleeve and working toward each
end. The outside seams should be begun at the notch at the elbow,
working toward each end. Where the sleeve calls for gathering the
fullness should be distributed between the notches and the two portions
of the sleeve should be secured at this point, before or after basting
the upper or lower portions of each sleeve.
[Illustration: FINISHING OF SEAMS
Notched at Curves and Bound or Overcast.]
Stitch the seams just outside the basting, then remove the line of
basting along the seam and press. Trim off all rough edges. The inside
seam is opened and notched at the bend of the elbow and an inch or two
above and below and bound with silk binding ribbon or evenly overcast
with twist or mercerized cotton.
[Sidenote: Adding Cuffs]
If an elaborate cuff or trimming is to be added to the sleeve, whether
full or plain, it should be made separately and blind stitched to the
faced sleeve. In case the sleeve is gathered the fullness can be put
into a narrow band, the exact size of the cuff, the cuff then sewed on
the band.
[Sidenote: Putting in Sleeves]
In putting the sleeve in the armhole, be sure that both seams are at the
same point, that both ha
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