hen used for waists, because
the regularity of the design renders very conspicuous any inequalities
in the shoulders or bust, and the great variety of colors detracts from
the dignity of the dress. With small checks and narrow, self-colored
stripes the effect is different, causing the texture to appear only
shaded and not destroying the unity.

[Sidenote: Conventionalized Designs]

On garment fabrics the ornamentation should be flat, without shadow or
relief. The pattern must enhance and not mar the figure. If flowers,
foliage, or other natural objects are used for the designs, they should
be conventionalized--not direct copies of nature. A figured textile
requires more careful planning than plain material. It may be beautiful
when used properly, but it will appear hideous if distorted in the
making. A conventional fleur-de-lis pattern, or a long dash which
appears and disappears when used in long, graceful folds, adds to the
apparent height. These same figures wrongly used spread out awkwardly or
become distorted.

[Sidenote: Size of Design]

The size of the design should be regulated by the material--small
patterns being used for close, thick fabrics and larger designs, with
more delicate colors, for thin material of open texture. Thick, heavy
fabrics require rich, warm colors and the pattern likewise should be
rich and decorative. Velvets, velveteens, and heavy cloths for dresses
are beautiful in themselves and should not be marred by patterns or
trimmings.

Spirals or curved lines running crosswise on textiles distort the
natural curves of the figure by making seeming undulations where none
should be and accentuating the prominence of hips and bust. Such
patterns should not be used in folds.

COLOR

[Sidenote: Texture and Color]

Much is to be considered in choosing colors and it is folly to suggest a
particular shade for a person without taking into account texture of the
textile. Though the color may be good, the weave may destroy what might
otherwise have been a success.

Not only must color in itself be studied, but quality of color in
textiles as well. A shade of red, for example, in dull silk or
lusterless material may be most unbecoming for a woman of a certain
type, while it may be worn successfully if made in rich velvet or glossy
silk.

Some women maintain that they cannot wear green, but nearly all can
dress becomingly in this color if the shade and texture is selected
carefully. The same