in front or back. The strips of inserting and ribbon should be
basted on the paper pattern and joined by fancy stitches or over sewed.
The parts next the neck will need to be held fuller than the outside
curve of the inserting.

All yokes to be worn under the gown should be made on a well-fitted
lining. Never trust to pinning, basting, or hooking the yoke to the
waist.

The finish of collar, cuffs, girdle and placket are hallmarks of good
dressmaking. Well finished ends and corners, the careful adjustment of
fastenings, shields carefully fitted to the arm's eye and caught
smoothly to the lining--all these are little things that count for more
than money spent in expensive ornament.

PRESSING

[Sidenote: Pressing Board]

The success of the finish of every garment depends upon the pressing,
whether the material be heavy or light, cotton or wool. Garments are
always pressed on the wrong side, when being made. The iron used should
neither be too hot nor too heavy and the work should be done on a
perfectly smooth, well-covered board. For pressing black or dark cloth,
the cover of the board should be dark and free from lint, while a
perfectly clean light cover should be substituted when white or light
goods are to be pressed.

[Sidenote: Placing the Iron]

The whole face of an iron should never be put down on a seam or any part
of a waist, but the side or point should be used, care being taken _not_
to stretch a curved seam. A small rolling pin, a broom stick, a chair
rocker, or any rounded stick well covered can be used for pressing
curved seams or sleeves. This lessens the danger of marking the seams on
the right side. These are only makeshifts; a regular half round sleeve
bound should be obtained if much work is to be done.

In pressing, the iron should never be shoved or pushed, as in ironing.
Only heavy materials require great strength. It is possible to press too
much as well as too little. Whatever the material, pressing is work that
requires to be done carefully and slowly. Allow the iron to touch only
the center of the seam, the edges of the seam will not then be outlined
upon the goods. Piled goods require infinite care. Uncut velvet, crape,
etc., should _never_ be pressed with the iron flat on the seam. The seam
should be opened carefully and over the rounded surface of the board,
covered with very soft cotton flannel into which the pile can sink
without being flattened. Run the iron with the pile, or t