e made shorter by laying folds across both back
and front. The fold across the back should be two inches above the waist
line and across the front two inches below the arm's eye (in the back).
Securely pin or baste the folds in the pattern. If the pattern is of
nearly the correct size it may be only necessary to make the waist
shorter and smaller. The neck and arm's eye will seldom need altering.
The sleeves may be shortened in the same way by laying folds in the
pattern, above and below the elbow.

PLAN FOR MAKING A SHIRT WAIST

After the waist is cut, remove and care for the patterns.
Make the sleeves, cuffs and collar band first.
Make box plait on right or left side as liked by the wearer and hem
on the other side or face.
Baste shoulders and under-arm seams.
Try on the waist, making all changes necessary by enlarging or
taking up seams.
Pin for neck band and mark for seams.
Fit sleeves and mark places for seams.
Arrange fullness and place tape at back of waist line.

[Sidenote: Making Plain Sleeve]

If the pattern is for a plain, one-seam sleeve with the cuff opening at
the end of the seam, hem each side of the opening one or two inches from
the bottom, gather the bottom between the notches, lay the gathers,
baste the right side of the sleeve band or cuff to the wrong side of the
sleeve, stitch and _press_, fold in a hem on all edges of the cuff, fold
the cuff over on the wrong side of the sleeve, baste, oversew the ends
of the cuff, _press_ and stitch the cuff close to all edges. After thus
attaching the cuff, baste and stitch the long seam of the sleeve and
gather at the top between notches. The cuff is usually cut in the
direction of the warp of the goods.

The sleeve described is the simplest that can be made. If the sleeve is
to open at the back and finished with a tape, with a placket, strap or
fancy lap, the seam in the sleeve is stitched first and the cuff
afterward adjusted.

[Illustration: PLAIN SLEEVE WITH CUFF, SHOWING GENERAL METHODS OF SEWING
ON BANDS]

The box plait is made if desired and the under arm and shoulder seams
basted when the shirt waist is ready to try on. Make any change in the
seams necessary. The neck band is put on in the same way as the cuffs,
sleeves sewed in, fullness arranged at the back and a tape placed at the
waist line. Three hooks or other fastenings should always be placed at
the back to attach to correspond