pin and mark
where it sets right, seeing that the elbow fullness is in the right
place and that it does not twist at the hand.

As in the lining, all changes necessary in fitting should, if possible,
be made in the straight seams, as it is difficult to preserve the proper
lines of the curved ones. The shoulder seams should be the last one to
be basted.

After all faults are remedied, the seams are carefully stitched along
the line or basting, the bastings removed, the seams pressed and
finished. The last seam to be stitched securely should be the one at the
shoulder. By leaving this open, all fullness can be smoothed upwards and
any trimming can be let into the seam.

[Illustration: BACK OF WAIST, WELL MATCHED]

[Sidenote: Boning]

Sew in featherbone by cat stitching to the seam, first finishing the
ends by button-holing. All seams should be stretched well when sewing on
bones of any kind.

Curved seams should be notched every one or two inches at the curve and
bound or overcast. This allows them to lie flat.

[Sidenote: Draped Waist]

In a draped waist the lining is made separate and not stitched into any
seam of the outside except at the shoulder. In fitting the outside the
back is pinned on to the lining firmly, then the front and finally at
the underarm seams. The seams are then basted, the waist tried on again,
alterations made, if necessary, seams stitched and the bottom finished
with the lining, as desired.

Three eyes or other fastenings should always be sewed at the seams in
the waist line at the back to secure the skirt to the waist, thus
preventing it from sinking below the waist line.

[Sidenote: Finish of Bottom of Waist]

The finish of the lower edge of the waist is often a problem. If the
waist is to be worn under the skirt, just how to finish or whether to
finish it at all is a question. The first step is to trim the edges
evenly. A line of stitching and simple overcast will show less through a
close-fitting skirt of light weight material. When binding is used, it
should lie perfectly flat, twice stitched and pressed well.

If the waist is to be worn outside the skirt, a narrow bias strip of
canvas should be basted on the wrong side, the waist turned up over this
as directed for sleeve and collar finish. Over this a bias facing of
silk may be hemmed or cat-stitched.

[Sidenote: Fitting Irregularity of Figure]

In spite of careful measuring and all care in cutting, the waist may not