d for
the seam, as there is frequently a slight unevenness and one side may
have to be held a little full or stretched to make a perfect match. The
mitered seam is over-sewed.

[Illustration: MITERING AND JOINING EMBROIDERY

_A_--Finished with a stitched seam; _B_--Edge hemmed down and cloth cut
away underneath; _C_--Joined with lapped seam.]

After the corner is properly made, cut away the cloth of the embroidery,
allowing only enough for an inturned seam on the edge. This seam may be
stitched on the machine on both edges, or oversewed to the goods, or the
embroidery may be securely sewed on the plain part, after which the
underlying cloth may be cut away. This will make an almost perfect
corner.

Lace may be matched and mitered in a similar way.

MATCHING AND JOINING LACE

In joining lace, avoid a seam if possible. Select portions of the design
that will match, placing one pattern of the same design over the other.
Cut away a portion of the thick part of the pattern underneath and hem
the edges and inner part of the design down with fine thread.

Smyrna or Torchon lace is more difficult to hem or join when very open
or very fine. A small, felled seam is better than lapping and trying to
match the pattern.

Embroidery can be matched in the same way. Never let two heavy designs
lap over each other. The one on the wrong side should be cut out and
the edge sewed securely to the upper part of the design.

[Illustration: INSERTION WITH MITRED CORNER, TAPED AND FACED; EMBROIDERY
ROLLED WHIPPED AND GATHERED]

The plain material above the embroidery can be joined by a lapped seam,
turning first the right side and then the wrong side and hemming on both
sides of the seam.

MACHINE SEWING

The sewing machine has taken away much of the drudgery of home sewing,
but its use does not lessen the need of skill in hand work. No machine
can finish ends of belts, collars, sew on trimmings, fastenings, and
like work and the finish has much to do with the general appearance of a
garment.

[Sidenote: Types of Machines]

All the prominent makes of sewing machines were invented in the decade
following Howe's patent in 1846. The two chief types of machines are the
lock stitch, using double thread, and the chain or loop stitch, using a
single thread. Whatever the make of machine it should be run in
accordance with the rules accompanying it. The worker should familiarize
herself with the directions for setting and