with
warp running lengthwise. (b) Cut a piece of muslin on a true bias
and attach the bias edge to _a_ with a felled seam. (c) Trim the
model and hem all sides so that the finished model may measure 4 by
6 inches.

III. DARNING AND PATCHING. (a) In gingham or figures
cotton, make an underset patch of a square hole, matching the
goods. (b) Darn a three-cornered tear.

IV. FASTENINGS. The proper distance from the edge of
folded goods make (a) button hole, one end rounded and the other
finished with a bar tack. (b) Under it make a partly finished,
_barred_ buttonhole. (c) Below this make an eyelet hole, (d) below
the eyelet hole a loop, and sew on an eye.

On a second piece of folded goods opposite the first buttonhole,
(a) sew a four-hole button, corresponding in size to the
buttonhole. (b) Opposite the second buttonhole sew on a two-hole
button; (c) below, sew on two hooks corresponding in position to
the loop and eye. Make the two parts of the model so that the
corresponding fastenings will join.

V. APRON. Using fine muslin, make a doll's apron,
gathering into band at top. Above hem at the bottom, make two
clusters of tucks of three each.

MODELS. SECOND SERIES. FOR EXPERIENCED WORKERS

I. ROLLED HEM; HEM STITCHING. Make a doll's apron
of fine muslin, attach top to band with rolled, whipped gathers.
Make two clusters of tucks of three each at the bottom and hem
stitch the bottom hem.

II. SLEEVE PLACKET. Make a taped sleeve placket as shown
in the illustration.

III. MAKE A SLOT SEAM, using dress goods and finish with
an arrow head. (b) Make a large cloak buttonhole.

IV. MITRE EMBROIDERY and finish as shown in the
illustration. (b) Match and join the same.

V. EMBROIDERY: Make something small and useful--a doily,
stock, collar--illustrating some style of embroidery, or make a
model of the first series which will afford you the most new
experience.

[Illustration: MAKING MEXICAN DRAWN-WORK]

TEXTILES AND CLOTHING

PART III

DRESSMAKING

[Sidenote: Good Tools Necessary]

The greatest obstacle to home sewing of any kind is the failure to
provide suitable materials with which to do the work. To do good
work--to make attractive gowns--the simple tools which the work requires
must be provided. First, there should