PATCHING

[Sidenote: Underset Patch]

With the underset patch have the part to be patched pressed smooth,
baste the patch on the wrong side of the garment before cutting out the
worn place. (If the garment or article to be mended is worn or faded and
shrunken by laundering, boil the piece in soap, soda and water to fade
the patch, if of cotton or linen.) After basting, cut away all the worn
cloth, making a square or oblong hole. Cut to a thread. Cut each corner,
diagonally, one-eighth or one-quarter of an inch, turn all four edges of
the garment towards the wrong side. Begin at the center of one side and
hem all around the square, taking slanting even stitches, not too close
together. Remove the basting, trim the edges of the patch, press the
patch on the wrong side and catch stitch to the garment. This shows less
on the right side and does not make a hard line as if the patch were
turned back on the edge. If the cloth has a pattern or stripe, match it
perfectly, having the warp threads of both running the same way. Cut
both hole and patch square. An oval or round patch is unworkmanlike
and does not wear well. Keep the corners square and hem down well. The
object of pressing is to keep both garment and patch flat and even.
Flannel patches should be cat-stitched on the right side. No flannel
edges should ever be inturned.

[Illustration: UNDERSET PATCH, RIGHT SIDE, EDGE TURNED AND HEMMED TO
PATCH]

[Illustration: WRONG SIDE OF PATCH, CAT STITCHED]

[Illustration: WRONG SIDE OF PATCH IN TABLE CLOTH--RAW EDGE OVERCAST]

[Sidenote: Onset Patch]

The onset patch is used on lined garments and linings. The patch should
be rectangular and larger than the worn place. Fold the four edges on
the wrong side of the patch, place the patch with its wrong side on the
right side of the garment directly over the center of the hole. This
will bring the folded edges of the patch between the two pieces of cloth
and both right sides towards the worker. Do not baste, but pin
carefully. After the garment has been folded back until there are two
folded edges side by side, overhand the seam with even slanting
stitches. See that the corners are well sewed, that warp and woof
threads run in the same direction, that pattern and stripes match.

[Illustration: LINEN PATCH; CROSS STITCH INITIAL]

[Illustration: RIGHT SIDE OF FLANNEL PATCH

Edge cat stitched but not turned, back cat stitched in the same way.]

The worn part o