plain and ornamental. The plain stitches
are the (1) basting, (2) running, (3) the running and back stitch, (4)
half back stitch, (5) back stitch, (6) overhand or whipping stitch, (7)
overcast, (8) hemming, and (9) blind or slip stitch.

[Sidenote: Ornamental Stitches]

The ornamental stitches most frequently used are (1) outline, (2) chain,
(3) cat or herringbone, (4) blanket or loop, (5) feather, coral or
briar, (6) hemstitching, (7) French knots, (8) button hole, and (9)
cross stitch. Excepting the cross stitch, these are all variations of
the plain and button hole stitches.

The plain stitches may be used for ornamental purposes. The basting
stitch is known as Queen Anne darned work. The back stitch, known as
"seed work," is used in embroidering letters and monograms. The overhand
stitch is used as an ornamental stitch for joining selvages and in
hemming. The chain stitch, besides being ornamental, makes one of the
best darning stitches, reproducing the stitch in knitting. The cat
stitch is also useful in binding down open seams for flannel hems,
patching, etc.

[Sidenote: Basting]

(1) Basting proper is used only in the preparation of work to hold the
stuff and lining, or any two or more parts of the work together while it
is being stitched, none being left in the finished garment. It is also
used as a guide for sewing, feather stitching, etc.

[Sidenote: Tacking]

The slanting basting stitch or "tacking" is used in dressmaking for
holding linings. The needle is pointed towards the worker. Even basting
is used for holding several thicknesses of cloth and if the garment is
to be fitted, the stitches should be placed rather close. Uneven basting
is used for hems and seams to be machine stitched. Several short
stitches with one long one are used to baste crape and wiry fabrics,
for this method holds them better than stitches of equal length.

[Illustration: BASTING STITCHES

_a_--Even; _b_--Uneven; _c_--For wiry fabrics; _d_--Tacking;
_e_--Overcasting; _f_--Double or tailor overcasting.]

[Sidenote: Fastening the Thread]

All basting should be fastened at start with a knot or knot and back
stitch and finished with two or three back stitches. The length of
thread may be broken or cut from the spool, but should always be cut
from the work. Breaking weakens the fastening and biting off soils
delicate work with the moisture from the breath, to say nothing of the
injury to the teeth. Basting for large wo