their products?

10. How do the textile fibers compare in the raw state in condition and
price?

11. Give a brief description of silk from the egg to the woven cloth.

12. (a) What is the chief constituent of the vegetable fibers? (b) How
does their affinity for dyestuffs compare with wool and silk? (c) How do
the alkalies affect wool?

13. Describe the principal weaves and give examples of each.

14. (a) How are cotton and flax bleached? (b) What is a mordant? (c) How
should material be prepared for dyeing? (d) State what you know about
old time methods of dyeing.

15. How are print goods made? Name some printed fabrics.

16. Define woolens and worsteds.

17. Describe the finishing of woolen and worsted cloths.

18. What is noil; shoddy; felt; flocks?

19. With what dress goods have you had experience, and with what
results?

20. What factors determine the use of fabrics?

21. Of what value is the study of textiles? What have you gained by the
study of this lesson?

_Note._--After completing the test sign your full name.

[Illustration: EMBROIDERED INITIALS

_W_ and _L_--Sewed on initials; _B_--Satin stitch in wreath of feather
stitches; _C_--Outline and seed work; _D_--Chain and French knots;
_H_--Cross stitch; _L_--Chain; _H_--At the right, and the cross stitch
_H_ are made over canvas and the canvas threads drawn.]

TEXTILES AND CLOTHING

PART II

HAND SEWING

Good sewing, good pressing, well finished ends and corners, lightness of
touch which holds the work without apparently touching it, thus giving
to the finished garment a fresh look--all these are important
considerations.

[Sidenote: Kinds of Sewing]

The sewing done on wool, silk, and dresses of all kinds differs from
that on underwear and white work. Muslin underwear requires frequent
washing and ironing, hence the first essential is durability; close,
small stitches, all raw edges carefully turned and stitched securely.
Seams that are to come close to the body should lie perfectly flat. A
round seam would wear out sooner by coming into frequent contact with
the washboard and iron, besides irritating the skin. In dressmaking,
unless the stitching is used for ornamental purposes, it should never
show on the outside.

Periods of beautiful and dignified costume have been periods of fine
needlework--one art leading to and helping on the production of the
other.

[Sidenote: Plain Stitches]

Stitches may be divided into