etc. Baste with
the piece farthest from the worker extended one-eighth of an inch beyond
the other and sewed _with the grain_ of the goods, beginning at the
widest part of any bias. Press the seam with the nail on the right side,
turn the wide edge down flat to cover the raw edge and line of sewing,
and hem flat either by hand or machine. Care should be taken to keep the
seam flat on the right as well as on the wrong side. If the felling is
done with the machine hemmer, the wide edge must be on the opposite
side. The seam may be basted with both edges even if preferred, cutting
off one edge after stitching.

[Illustration: SEAMS

_a_--Full; _b_--French Screen.]

[Illustration: BEADED AND TAPED SEAMS

_A_--Tape basted on one edge, and the other edge turned and stitched;
_B_--Beading whipped to the folded edges; _a_--Stitched hem; _b_--Hem
finished with feather stitching.]

[Sidenote: French Seam]

A French seam is sewed twice--first on the right side as near the raw
edge as possible. Cut off all frayed edges, turn the material by folding
_on the seam_ or line of sewing, so the seam is folded inside and the
second sewing is on the wrong side below the raw edges. This is not a
good seam for underwear worn next the body, as it leaves a ridge on the
wrong side, but it is useful for skirts of thin material, etc. It is
more easily made than a fell.

[Sidenote: Beaded Seam]

Beaded seams used for fine white work have a line of beading overhanded
between gores, hems, or gathers. The hem along the seam should be folded
on the right side, leaving a perfectly flat surface to iron on the wrong
side, and finished with an ornamental stitch covering the hem.

[Sidenote: Slot Seams]

The slot seam, used in cloth dresses and jackets, requires exact basting
with silk or very fine thread with small, even stitches. If a coarse
thread is used, the material will be badly marked. After basting, press
the seam open as if it had been stitched, and baste the strap or under
strip of the dress material (which has been cut perfectly straight and
even) over the wrong side of the seam, having the center of the seam on
the center of the strap. Stitch any width desired beyond the center
through the three thicknesses. This will hold the seam in position. Now
remove the bastings from the seam and the slot effect is complete. If
desired, there may be a double row of stitching, an extra row on the
edge of the fold or plait. These seams ma