ods. Keep the hem perfectly round, firm and not too large. This hem is
adapted only to fine material and the edge across the warp is the more
easily rolled.

[Sidenote: Whipped Gathers]

To gather, whip the rolled hem without hemming, making overcasting
stitches towards you, even and not too fine. Use coarser thread than for
hemming. This gathering thread is used to hold down the edge as well as
for drawing up the gathers and it not to be taken out, as is the
ordinary gathering thread. It should _not_ catch in the roll. Have the
thread the length of the plain space to which it is to be sewed and
regulate the gathers as you do the gathering. After the edge is rolled,
whipped and gathered, it is sewed to the garment by the little scallops
or raised parts made by the whipping. This is used only for making
ruffles or gathering on very fine hand work.

[Sidenote: French Hem]

The French hem is used for table linen. Fold as in an ordinary hem, then
fold the hem back on the right side and overhand the edge formed, taking
fine stitches. Press the hem flat from the right side.

[Sidenote: Flannel Hems]

Flannel hems should _not_ be twice folded, for there will be a ridge
instead of a flat surface after the garment has been laundered, owing to
the felting properties of the wool. Hems on flannel should not be
stitched by hand or machine, but cat stitched on the wrong side and
finished on the right side with any ornamental stitch.

Hems in infants' clothing may be turned on the right side and made
ornamental by feather stitching.

No selvage should ever be used on a hem. The selvage is more closely
woven and will draw or pucker in laundrying.

TUCKS

Tucks are folds made on thin material for ornament, to shorten or to
provide for lengthening a garment. If done by hand, a card measure is
preferable to a tape measure for marking the space and width of the
tucks. The folds should be creased to a thread, basted and sewed with a
running stitch showing but little on the face, or stitched on the
machine. Fine thread should be used.

SEAMS

A seam is the line of sewing that joins material; it may be plain or
ornamental. The most important are the overhand, felled, French, slot,
lapped, flannel, and beaded.

The overhand seam is described under the overhand stitch.

[Sidenote: Felled Seam]

A fell is a seam hemmed down to the goods to protect the raw edge. It is
usually made in night dresses, drawers, corset covers,