be worked with
ordinary thread, cotton or linen, sewing silk, or twist. Cotton thread
wears better than linen.

HEMS

[Sidenote: Folding Hems]

A hem is a fold of goods twice folded to protect a raw edge. The first
turn or fold of the hem is the most important. It should be straight and
even, _folded to a thread_, for upon it depends the beauty of the hem.
The hem should always be turned towards the worker and creased firmly,
but never pleated along the fold. First crease the narrow fold, then
crease the second fold the desired width, marking by a measure and baste
not too near the edge. The first fold _along_ the _woof_ threads should
be at least one-fourth of an inch in width, as the woof threads give or
stretch more than the warp threads; otherwise it will not lie flat.

[Sidenote: Sewing Hems]

In sewing the hem, the needle should take up only the edge to be hemmed
down and just enough to hold on the cloth or lining. In white work the
stitches should be fine, showing as little as possible.

[Sidenote: Bias Hem]

All bias and curved edges should have the first fold basted. In cloth or
silk this first basting thread should match the material and not be
taken out.

[Sidenote: Faced hem]

A facing or faced hem is also used as a protection to the edge of a
garment. A true bias or fitted facing should be used for a facing if the
edges of the garment are curved. An extension hem is one in which the
whole width of the hem is used.

[Illustration: HEMMING

_a_--Shows method of cutting to do away with a clumsey corner.]

[Sidenote: Slip-Stitching]

Slip-stitching or invisible hemming is done on silk, wool, and thick
material. The hem is pressed with an iron, a stitch as fine as possible
is taken on the surface of the cloth and the needle slipped under and
through the first fold, drawing the thread lightly. The needle and
thread used in this stitch must be very fine.

[Illustration: MITERED CORNERS

Method of Folding and Cutting.]

[Illustration: ROLLED HEM AND WHIPPED GATHERS

_a_--Rolled Hem Gathered; _b_--Whipped Roll; _c_--Double Whipped;
_d_--Roll Hemmed; _e_--Gathers Sewed to Band.]

[Sidenote: Rolled Hem]

Rolled hem and whipped gathers are made with the wrong side of the
material next the worker. Make a tiny roll of the edge towards the
worker, using the left thumb and index finger, rolling an inch at a time
(and no more) before hemming. Make fine, even stitches in the roll and
go