linen and unlined work, make the under side very
neat by running the thread under the stitches already made, instead of
taking a long stitch when beginning in another part of the letter or
design.

[Sidenote: Satin Stitch]

(10) The satin stitch is an over and over stitch and is used on
materials of all kinds for marking linen, etc.

The _padding_ is the first step and should be done in long even stitches
placed closely and over one another in the center. The size and
proportions of the figure or letters determine the size of the thread.
Fine thread gives the best results. The outline should be run twice;
this keeps the edge firm. An even darning or basting stitches, chain
stitches or outline stitch may be used if the space is not too small.
The padding may be worked in an embroidery hoop to keep it smooth and
even. Scallops may be padded in the same way or worked flat.

[Illustration: EMBROIDERY BUTTON HOLE AND BLANKET STITCHES

Scallops Outlined and Padded.]

In large figures the stitches are laid closely and exactly parallel the
entire length of the form. They may be straight across or at an angle,
but the one slant must be maintained throughout. In small curved
figures, the stitches may be placed more closely at the inner edge and
spread slightly at the outer edge. In flat work where the leaf or petal
is large, two or three stitches taken in the cloth, back of the face
stitch, holds them even and prevents misplacement in laundering. (All
embroidery should be ironed on the wrong side.)

[Illustration: ARROW HEAD, DOUBLE ARROW HEAD AND CROW'S FOOT.]

[Sidenote: Eyelet Embroidery]

Eyelet embroidery is a simple over and over stitch forming a smooth,
round edge. Like satin stitch, all outlines are run with an even darning
stitch, except the very small eyelet holes, made with a stiletto. Long
or oval openings must be cut through the center.

[Sidenote: Shadow Embroidery]

Shadow embroidery is worked on the wrong side of thin material, using
the cat stitch. The outline of the design only shows on the right side,
the body of the design being seen dimly through the material.

[Sidenote: Arrow Heads]

The arrow head and crow's foot are ornamental fastenings used in fine
tailoring as endings for seams, tucks, plaits, and at corners. They are
made as shown in the illustration.

Mercerized cotton, linen, or any of the embroidery silks can be used for
these stitches, in all sizes and colors, or they can