y be finished at the bottom
with arrow heads or stitched designs. The lines of machine stitching
should not end without some ornament to _appear_ to hold the plait.

[Illustration: SLOT SEAM FINISHED WITH ARROW HEAD]

[Illustration: FLANNEL SEAMS AND HEMS

Finished with various Ornamental Stitches.]

[Sidenote: Lapped Seam]

In the lapped seam the edges are folded each within the other or one
over the other so that both sides are alike. If made of heavy material,
the raw edges are left unturned; in muslin or linen the edges are
inturned, lapped, basted and the hem stitched on both edges or hemmed
down on both sides by hand.

[Illustration: PLACKETS

_A_--Made by folding a wide hem over a narrow one; _B_--Tape faced
sewing for the purpose of a gusset. Method of folding the tape shown.]

[Sidenote: Flannel Seams]

Flannel seams should be stitched, opened and pressed _flat_, either on
the right or wrong side of the garment. If on the right side, taffeta
ribbon should be basted over the seam, so that the raw edges of flannel
will not show, and cat stitched or buttonhole stitched on both sides of
the ribbon, or any fancy stitch--not too long--may be used. This is the
Dorothy seam. For the seam on the wrong side, the edges should be cat
stitched with fine thread. Any ornamental stitch may be used on the
right side of the seam. Always press flannel seams and hems before
finishing. Flannel should never be hem stitched.

PLACKETS

A placket is an opening in a garment allowing it to be put on. The
simplest placket is made by cutting a slit and folding a wide hem over a
narrow one turned on the face of the goods; this makes a pleat below the
vent. There should be a double line of stitching across the bottom of
the hem to strengthen the placket.

[Sidenote: Tape Faced Placket]

The tape faced placket is stronger and may be used in children's
drawers, etc., in place of a gusset to strengthen the end of the
opening. A single piece of tape folded back as for a loop is stitched
along all edges, making an opening without a lap. This offers as much
resistance as a gusset and is more quickly done.

[Illustration: FACED PLACKET

_A_--Wrong side, opened, showing tape; _B_--Right side showing on-set
piece; _aa_ and _bb_ the same ends of the tape; 1-2 method of folding
and cutting end of on-set piece.]

[Sidenote: Faced Placket]

In a third kind of placket, the opening is faced with a continuous piece
of