hree under, etc., etc.

[Sidenote: Sateen Weave]

In the sateen weave, nearly all of either the warp or the filling
threads are on the surface, the object being to produce a smooth surface
fabric like sateen. With this weave it is possible to use a cotton warp
and silk filling, having most of the silk appear on the surface of the
fabric.

[Illustration: TEXTILE DESIGN

_A_--On cross-section paper; _B_--Graphic diagram.]

[Sidenote: Rib and Basket Weaves]

The rib and basket weaves are derivatives of the plain weave, two or
more threads replacing the single strand. In the rib weave, either the
warp or the filling threads run double or more, thus making a corded
effect. In the basket weave, both warp and filling are run double or
treble, giving a coarse texture. This weave is sometimes called the
panama weave.

[Sidenote: Double Cloth]

In the thicker fabrics like men's suitings and overcoatings, there may
be a double series of warp threads, only one series appearing on the
face of the goods, and in the still thicker fabrics, there may be a
double set of both warp and filling threads, making double cloth, the
two sides of which may be entirely different in color and design.

[Sidenote: Velvet]

In weaving plush, velvet and velveteen, loops are made in the filling or
warp threads which are afterwards cut, producing the pile.

BLEACHING, DYEING, PRINTING, FINISHING

When the cloth comes from the loom it is by no means ready for the
market. Nearly all kinds are washed and pressed and in some classes of
goods the finishing process is very elaborate.

BLEACHING AND DYEING

The fiber may be dyed in a loose or unspun state, as is customary with
wool; after it has been spun and is in the form of yarn, as in the case
of silk and linen; and when it has been woven to form cloth, as is most
commonly the case with cotton.

[Sidenote: Madder Bleach]

The bleaching of cotton involves a number of steps, the most thorough
process being called the "madder bleach," in which the cloth is (1) wet
out, (2) boiled with lime water, (3) rinsed, (4) treated with acid, (5)
rinsed, (6) boiled with soap and alkali, (7) rinsed, (8) treated with
bleaching powder solution, (9) rinsed, (10) treated with acid, (11)
finally rinsed again. All this is done by machines and hundreds of yards
go through the process at a time. The product is a pure white cloth
suitable for dyeing light shades and for white goods. When cloth is