ifferent color. This is called the "resist" process. Another process
is to first dye the cloth and then print on some chemical which, when
the calico is steamed, discharges the color. This is called the
"discharge" process. Sometimes this weakens the goods in the places
where the color has been discharged.

[Sidenote: Fixing the Print]

The color paste used for printing contains both the dye and the mordant.
After the calico has been printed it is steamed to develop and fix the
color, washed, sometimes very slightly bleached, to clear the whites,
and usually given a sizing of starch or gum, and then pressed and dried
by passing over slowly revolving, steam-heated drums.

In general print goods are not so fast to washing and to light as those
that have been dyed in the regular way, although the better grades are
reasonably fast.

Prints are sometimes made in imitation of the more costly gingham or
other goods in which the color design is made in the weaving. It is easy
to detect the imitation as the design of printed fabrics does not
penetrate to the back of the cloth.

[Sidenote: Warp Printing]

Sometimes the warps are printed before the cloth is woven, thus giving
very pretty indefinite designs, especially in silk.

FINISHING

[Sidenote: Burling and Mending]

The finishing of woolen and worsted goods has much to do with their
appearance. No cloth comes from the loom in a perfect condition,
therefore inspection is the first process. Loose threads and knots are
carefully cut off by the "burler" and imperfections in the weaving
rectified by the "menders." The goods may now be singed and sheared.

[Sidenote: Fulling]

[Sidenote: Flocks]

Woolens, and sometimes worsteds, are next "fulled" or felted by being
run round and round in a machine while moistened with soap. The friction
of the cloth on itself produces some heat which, with the moisture and
soap, causes the goods to shrink in length and width while increasing in
thickness. During this process, "flocks" are often added, especially for
smooth finished woolen goods. These flocks are fine fibers of wool
obtained from the shearing machine or made by cutting up old woolen
cloth. They are felted with the fibers of the goods and add weight and
firmness.

[Sidenote: Raising the Nap]

After the fulling, the goods is washed to remove the soap, dyed, if
desired, and often "speck dyed" with a special dye which colors the bits
of burs, remaining in the cloth,