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lannel. * * * * * Cord--The general term is applied to any fabric in which the lines run in the same direction as the selvage. Count--In spinning, the number given to any thread or yarn, except silk, to indicate its relative fineness, based on the number of yards required to weigh one pound. Felt--A cloth of wool, hair, fur, etc., not woven, but felted together; used for hats, slippers, boot tops, etc. Flock--Finely divided woolen waste used in finishing cheap woolens. Kemps--Fibers or hair like structure that sometimes come in wool, always in goat hair. They do not take the dye. Mercerized--A term applied to cotton fabrics of which the yarn is chemically treated with a strong solution of caustic soda, giving the appearance of silk, more or less permanent; named after Mercer, discoverer of the process. Mill ends--Trade term referring to short lengths, seconds, damaged pieces, etc., of cloth, embroideries, etc., that accumulate in mills and shops and are usually sold at a nominal price. Narrow cloth--Trade term for fabrics less than 29 inches wide. Wider cloths are called broad cloths. Oil-boiled--Trade term for colors so treated to insure permanence. Oiled silk--The plain silk boiled in oil. Silk boiled in oil and dried, becoming translucent and waterproof; used as a perspiration guard. Pepper-and-salt--A black and white or grayish mixture, effected in weaving. Rubber cloth--Usually cotton sheeting or drilling with a coating of rubber on one side; used as a protective cloth for various purposes. Shepherd check--Tiny checks, usually black and white. Twilled--Woven in such a manner as to produce lines or ribs diagonally or across the surface of the fabric. Woolens--Name of fabrics or carded wool, usually soft woven. Worsteds--Fabrics made of combed wool, usually hard woven. The combing is the process of arranging the fibers of wool, mohair, cotton, linen, into a parallel condition, preparatory to spinning into a smooth, even and regular yarn. The perfected application of the combing principle. BIBLIOGRAPHY ON TEXTILES Historical and Art Arts and Crafts Essays $1.00 Morris, Crane, et al. Postage
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