use brightens and whitens it.
Linen adulterated with cotton becomes fuzzy through wear because of the
much shorter cotton fibers. The tendency can often be seen by rolling
the goods between the thumb and fingers.
Crash of different widths and quality furnishes tea towels, "huck,"
damask and other weaves come in various widths and may be purchased by
the yard. Russia crash is best for kitchen towels.
WOOLENS AND WORSTEDS
[Sidenote: Standard Goods]
The many grades of wool with the great variety of weaves and finish make
an almost infinite variety of woolen and worsted fabrics. New goods are
constantly being put upon the market, or old goods with new names.
Standard goods, such as serges, cashmere, Henrietta cloth, and covert
cloth, are always to be found in the shops. These are all twilled goods.
The serges are woven of combed wool and are harsh, tough, springy,
worsted fabrics of medium and heavy weight, with a distinct twill,
rather smooth surface, and plainer back. There are also loosely woven
serges. Cashmere and Henrietta cloth have a fine, irregular twill--the
finest made. They are woven with silk, wool, and cotton warp, but the
latter gives an inferior textile.
[Sidenote: Tweeds]
Tweeds and homespuns are names given to coarse cloth of which the wool
is spun by hand and woven on hand looms. These goods vary according to
the locality in which they are made. The wool is mixed without regard to
color, the yarn being spun and twisted in the most primitive manner,
giving the cloth an uneven, unfinished appearance. These are among the
best wearing cloths on the market and are especially suitable for suits
that will receive hard wear. Scotland and Ireland are famous for their
tweeds and homespuns and what are known as the "cottage industries" have
been recently revived in those countries as the products of their hand
looms have become deservedly popular abroad.
[Sidenote: Harris Tweeds]
The "Harris Tweeds," made on the Island of Lewis and Harris, north of
Scotland, are in the old style by the "crofters." After weaving the
goods are "waulked"--milled or felted--with the bare feet, accompanied
by singing the waulking song and beating time with the feet. The dyeing
is done in pots in the old-fashioned way and until recently the
dyestuffs were obtained from mosses, lichens, heather, broom, and other
plants. Now, however, some of the best aniline dyes are being used. A
peculiar characteristic of the Harris
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