tweed is the peat smoke smell
caused by the fabric being woven in the crofters' cottages, where there
is always a strong odor of peat "reek" from the peat which is burned for
fuel. The ordinary so-called Harris tweeds sold in this country are made
on the southern border of Scotland, in factories, and are but imitations
of the real Harris tweeds.

The light colored tweeds--natural color of wool--come from the island of
St. Kilda. This island stands out in mid ocean, barren and wild, devoid
of plants or shrubs of any kind for making dyes. The crofters content
themselves without dyestuffs. The industry is maintained by nobility to
help the islanders and the fabrics are fashionable and high priced.

Covert cloth is a twilled woven cloth of great beauty and durability. It
is rather heavy, of hard finish and is used for jackets and winter
suits. To this list of woolen goods may be added the crape cloth with
crinkled, rough surface, nun's veiling, flannel which is woven in a
variety of ways, broadcloth, wool canvas, and poplins. This list
includes only a few of the fabrics manufactured, but these are always to
be found on the market, are always good in color and are the best of all
wool textiles for wear.

[Sidenote: Mohair]

[Sidenote: Alpaca]

Mohair is a material made from the hair of the angora goat, woven with
silk, wool, worsted, or cotton warp. It is a dust-shedding material,
does not shrink, and bears hard wear well. Alpaca, on account of its
softness, elasticity, and exemption from shaggy defects, combines
admirably with cotton in the manufacture of fine goods, which attains
almost the glossy brightness of silk. The yarn is used for weaving
alpaca linings and light coatings for warm climates.

SILKS

Many silks can be washed without injury to the fibers, but they cannot
be boiled without destroying the luster. Silks may be had in various
widths and endless variety of weaves. Many are reversible.

[Sidenote: Loading Silk]

Silks are adulterated with cotton and ramie fibers. The chemicals used
in "loading" or "dynamiting" to give the weight lost by cleaning or
removing the gum from the raw silk give to the cheaper grades the
stiff, harsh feeling and cause the splitting and cracking of the silk,
hence the quality of the fiber should be considered when selecting a
silk, not the weight. Taffeta is often heavily loaded.

Foulard and surah are twilled silks. Corded silks are woven with a cord
running from sel