s dyed before
weaving. The warp is formed by winding as many threads as the width of
the fabric is to contain on a slowly revolving drum, called a "beam," in
the same relative position in which they are to appear in the finished
cloth. From its position on the beam at the back of the loom, each
thread is brought through its particular loop or eye with the heddle,
then passes through its own slot in the reed, and down to the roller or
"cloth beam" that is to take up the woven cloth. This is called "drawing
in the warp." If there is a piece of cloth coming from the loom, the
work is very simple, for the ends of the new warp are tied to the ends
remaining from the warp that has been woven out.

The shuttle with its bobbin, containing the yarn of the filling, is much
the same as is used in the hand looms, except for form and size, which
varies according to the requirements and size of the warp being used. At
first only one shuttle was used, but in 1760 Robert Kay invented a
mechanism by which several shuttles containing different grades or
colors of yarn might be used. Each throw of the shuttle across the width
of the goods is called a "pick."

[Sidenote: The Harness]

In making a cloth with plain weave, that is, with every thread
interlacing with every other, as in darning, only two harnesses are
required, but the modern loom may have up to about twenty-four harnesses
so that an infinite variety of weaves may be obtained. Various cams and
levers move the harness frame and so raise or lower the threads required
for the design.

[Sidenote: Jacquard Loom]

The Jacquard loom is arranged on a different principle. In this loom,
all kinds of fancy weaves may be obtained as in table linen, tapestries
and carpets. Each warp thread is supplied with a separate hook and by
means of perforated card the desired threads are raised or depressed at
each throw of the shuttle. The cards are worked out by the designer. A
set of a thousand or more cards may be required to produce the desired
design. Jacquard looms are sometimes to be seen at fairs and expositions
weaving handkerchiefs with some picture design.

[Illustration: JACQUARD HAND LOOM Weaving Ingrain Carpet at Hull
House.]

WEAVES

The great variety of weaves found in the textiles of to-day are
modifications of a few fundamental weaves invented in the earliest
times.

The chief fundamental weaves are:

(1) Plain weave.
(2) Twills.
(3) Sateen.

To which may be ad