he crowd had
departed. To our surprise, we found these foolish fellows at our door
awaiting us. "Sir," they said, "we would speak with you a moment." Going
aside with them, I asked their wishes. They then launched out, with
weeping and groans and much wringing of hands, into a dreary tale. They
were young teachers waiting for appointment; one of them had a little
family; it would be a dreadful thing for them to be taken away and
forced into the army. It was impossible to convince them that there was
no harm in the matter. After long discussion and elaborate explanations,
they cheered up somewhat, but insisted that I must go to the house of
one of them, the one who had given trouble, to take _pulque_. We
went, three abreast, each one of them taking one of my _brazitos
queridos_--"beloved little arms;" as we went, they alternately indulged
in admiring exclamations--"Ah, Severo, what a _maestro_! how fine a
gentleman! how amiable! Say Manuelito, was there ever such a one." At
the house, which was neat and clean, I met the mother and two little
ones, who would be left behind in case Severo were forced to go into the
army. Then the _pulque_ was brought in and sampled. As I was leaving to
go to supper, they said, no, I must go to my room; they would accompany
me. In vain I reminded them that my companions were waiting for me at
the eating-place; I must be seen back to my very door, then I might go
where I pleased; but with them I had gone forth, and until they saw me
home again, they would be responsible for my person.
Coixtlahuaca itself is largely a _mestizo_ town. But immediately in its
neighborhood, and on its outskirts, are indian villages. All Chochos
know Spanish, and but few talk their own language. There is little of
interest in their life and nothing characteristic in their dress, which
is that of _mestizos_ in general. But the physical type is well defined.
The stature is small; the face is short and broad; the nose is wide and
flat, with a fat, flattened tip; the hair is somewhat inclined to curl,
especially on top behind.
Despairing of the promised trip through the villages, we issued orders
for our animals to be ready early one morning. Only after vigorous
complaints and threats were they actually ready. The owner of the beast
which I, myself, mounted went with us on foot, and a _mozo_ was supplied
for carrying instruments. In spite of fair promises that we would
leave at three, it was 4:40 before we started,
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