demanding too high a price for his horses and mules, we decided to see
what the town authorities would do for us, and went to the _municipio_.
The _presidente_ told us, with delight, that the _jefe politico_ of
Ozuluama was there with his family, rusticating, and at once summoned
him to meet us. He was a gentlemanly fellow, who told us that the price
demanded was regular, but advised us to travel in a different way.
"Here," he said, "you can get a large canoe; starting now, you can
travel all night; reaching La Llave in the early morning, you can get
horses and go the seven leagues remaining comfortably. Take a little
something to eat before you start, and carry something for the way."
This seemed an opportunity for a new experience, and, though the price
was little, if any, less than we were asked to pay for animals, we
decided to try it. Arrangements were begun at once, breakfast ordered,
and a light lunch prepared for carrying. Meantime, the _jefe_ told us
that there were few Indians in Ozuluama, but that in Citlaltepec we
would find abundance. He gave us orders to his _secretario_, who
represented him during his absence, and bade us god-speed. We left at
one o'clock, in a great canoe, a heavy, timber-framed boat, propelled
by long poles, by oars in quiet and deep water, and by a clumsy sail. A
framework of poles, covered with matting, roofed over the middle of the
boat, and a piece of matting was spread upon the floor. Hanging blankets
to shelter ourselves from the heavy wind yet blowing, we busied
ourselves variously, the boys skinning birds which they had shot, and I
making up my various notes. The lagoon which we now entered was a large
stretch of open water. We raised our sail, and made easy work. Having
crossed the large lagoon, we entered the mouth of what probably would be
considered a fair-sized river, which at first was closely bordered by a
tangle of trees and vines, and presented a truly tropical appearance.
Palms were abundant, and, here and there, one of unusual size towered
high above the rest. The other trees were densely hung with long gray
moss. Now and then, we disturbed alligators along the banks, and we were
told that snakes were abundant in the grass. The quantity of water-birds
was astonishing--great and small white herons, large blue herons, little
blue herons, the curious, dark wry-necks, and ducks by thousands. The
positions and attitudes of these long-necked and long-legged birds, in
the wate