onotonous, over a road which made few ascents or descents, and
presented little of variety or interest. Little green hills bordered
the road on either side, and on many of them were ranch-houses, some of
rather good construction. In a little stream over which we passed, we
saw a great idol's head, of stone, a foot or more across, and well
made. San Geronimo we found to be the comfortable country-house of the
_alcalde_ of Tamalin and all the ranches among which we had made our
journey. It was a fine old place, with high airy rooms, good verandas,
and an old-fashioned tile roof. Our journey had been hot, and we found a
fine breeze blowing through the house. The _alcalde_ knew all about
our errand and was ready to be helpful. He was a tall, slender,
mild-mannered and polite _mestizo_. After we had eaten, he rode with us
to Paso Real to arrange about a boat and point out various objects of
interest on the way. _Chapapote_, from which chewing gum is made, is an
important product here, and among those interested in it as a business
is an American dentist. We saw many birds, among which doves were
conspicuous; the _alcalde_ says that six or eight species occur here,
the different kinds singing at different seasons; one of them had a
peculiarly sad and mournful song, and is heard in the early morning.
Another bird, the _primavera_, seems to be like our mockingbird,
imitating the notes and cries of many other birds and animals. At two
places we passed black lines of foraging ants, and he told us that
insects, frogs, toads, and even snakes, encountered by these lines, are
helpless, being promptly overcome and devoured. Arrived at Paso Real,
the _alcalde_ arranged for our boat. He told us that loaded boats
require three days for making the journey to Tampico, but that ours,
being empty, would probably go through in twenty-four hours. The boat he
arranged for had been partly loaded, but its owner had agreed to unload
in order to receive us. As a favor to him, we consented to permit five
or six not large boxes to go along. Having ordered supper for us at the
house upon the summit from which the road descended to Paso Real, the
_alcalde_ left us. Supper was slow, but at last was over. Our baggage
had already been carried to the boat, and we strolled down to take our
passage. Less room was left for us than we had expected the boxes would
leave, but it was dark and we raised no question. We waited an impatient
hour for our canoemen to ta