an of means, but the meals served
were of a mean and frugal kind. Everyone made dire prophecies about the
time of possible arrival of my companions, and the period necessary
for our further journey to Tuxtla Gutierrez. I had not expected my
companions before seven, and after these dismal forebodings, gave up
that expectation. To my surprise, they appeared, in good health and
spirits, at five o'clock, though with exciting tales of peril and
suffering. After a meal together, we again mounted in the old fashion,
and were on our way. The air was fresh and cool, and at 9:30 the moon
rose, giving perfect light. The road was high and sandy, with occasional
small ascents and descents. At eleven we stopped to rest, I agreeing
to wake them all at midnight; at one o'clock I was awakened by our
_carretero_ raising the tongue of the wagon! We passed La Razon at
three. As one of the oxen, which had been somewhat lame, was now in bad
condition, we all dismounted, half-a-league before we reached Zapote,
and walked the rest of the way. The Hacienda of Zapote is really almost
a town. There are two _fincas_, belonging to two brothers. Their fine
large houses, the out-buildings, and the clusters of adobe huts for the
workmen, make an imposing appearance. We stopped at the first group of
buildings, which stands a little lower than the other. Arriving at six,
we spent the whole day at this place; the meals at the great house were
excellent and cheap. In the afternoon we heard marimba-playing; the
instrument was called _la golondrina_ and cost the owner forty-three
pesos.

[Illustration: A DAY REST; THE CARIZAL]

[Illustration: MARIMBA-PLAYING; HACIENDA DE ZAPOTE]

The players were carefully trained, being four brothers. The youngest of
them was not more than fourteen years old, but he put much expression
and spirit into his playing. It was the first time that any of the
party, but myself, had heard this instrument, and all were delighted
at its brilliant, quick, and pleasing music. We left at 3:45 in the
afternoon, but our ailing animal was worse than ever, and Eustasio ran
ahead, trying to secure others at different ranches. He had had no
success when, after a rough ride of several hours, we drew up at
Jiquipilas, where we waited until the morning. We planned to secure new
animals, to leave at dawn, and to reach Tuxtla after a twenty-four hour
ride. We laid down and slept, waking at five, but finding no sign of
animals. We breakfasted at