tepec
and San Geronimo. From the latter point, an ox-cart journey of ten
nights, across the states of Oaxaca and Chiapas, brought us to Tuxtla
Gutierrez. By horse we continued through Chiapas to El Salto, where we
took steamer for Frontera. From there, by steamer to Vera Cruz and then
by rail, we traveled to the City of Mexico. Zoques, Tzotzils, Tzendals,
and Chols were studied in this portion of the journey.
APPENDIX
STARR IN OLD MEXICO
Oaxaca, Mexico, March 1.--Prof. Frederick Starr, of the University
of Chicago, is deep in the midst of his savages. He is manipulating
primitive town governments, wielding the authority of federal and state
governments, county police, and that of the clergy as well. He is
threatening, cajoling, clapping in jail, when necessary, and in general
conquering his series of strange nations. I found him doing all this,
and more, in a little native village fifty miles from the city of
Oaxaca, Feb. 2nd. The fat little man was complete master of the Zapotec
town of Mitla, far distant from the end of the last of the railroads,
a town famous for its ruins. He bustled about like a captain in a war
haste, dressed in a massive Indian sombrero, from which a white string
floated picturesquely behind, a necktie of slim, dusty black, which
seemed not to have been unknotted for many a day, a shirt less
immaculate than the one he may wear at the entertainment shortly to
be given him in London, and no coat. The professor's trousers are not
Indian. They are farm trousers, of an original type, with double seat
for the saddle.
The professor's blood was up. A grand native feast--in which drunken
dances, bull-fights, and a state of accumulated irresponsibility are the
rule--had delayed him three days. The Indians could no more be measured
and "busted"--as the professor calls the making of plaster casts--than
could the liquor they had drunk. After three days of pleading,
threatening, and berating, in which orders from every government and
church official in the country, from lowest to highest, had failed,
Prof. Starr seized the black-bearded and wiry president of the town
council, the chief potentate of the reeling set, called him a drunken
scoundrel, threatened in deep seriousness to imprison every man in the
town, and finally won his point--but not until the feast was done. When
feasts are over, the people are kindly, suave, gracious.
Then the professor corralled those he wanted. He was to meas
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